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Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Fashion Designer, Global Fashion Industry, Interview

Frederick Jenkyn

September 26
Model | Kelly Hockey Place | London Designer | Frederick Jenkyn Photographer | Chris Fatseas

Frederick Jenkyn, Australian Fashion Designer, TAFE Ultimo. The Innovators.

As all of my devoted followers already know, earlier this year, I had the pleasure of perusing on mass, the breathtaking young smorgasbord of talent that Australia serves up each and every year at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. After the week long event, which is the highlight of the years for all Australian fashion devotees, I methodically work my way through the incredible mix of entrepreneurial youth, offering them the opportunity to publish an affordable and effective public relations interview to promote their names and their emerging brands.

Frederick Jenkyns collection was outstanding. I met him the very day of the unveiling of his collection, but am bringing you this interview after corresponding with him in London, his new place of residence.

As I am sure you are aware, and if you are not, please consider this.

Our emerging designers are quite literally our fashion future.  They represent the group of people who will lead us strongly, both locally and internationally, in the ethical and sustainable production of our beloved fashion industry. Young people such as Frederick will most likely be the names behind your choice of dressing and the other interiors of our design lives for decades to come. It is essential that we support them, read about them, buy their product and offer them our gratitude and encouragement.

Please remember to share  the love.

Australian fashion is depending on you …

 

Meet Frederick Jenkyn.

In five years? I want to have my own studio with pattern makers/design assistants. A machinist and a social media/online manager.

Rolls and rolls of fabrics and a stock room filled to the brim.

I would like to think I’ll be complaining about needing more space. But then I will think, I need to pay for the embroidery for next season so it’s not a good time to upgrade.

I will only wear black. In case someone visits the studio and I won’t look a mess.

And in the bottom draw of my desk, that looks like a filing draw, I’ll keep some throw rugs for the “before show” all-nighters.

Frederick Jenkyn

 

Model Kelly Hockey modelling in London for Frederick Jenkyn. Photographer Chris Fatseas.

Here is Frederick Jenkyn’s story so far …

Frederick Jenkyn as a brand emphasises wearable innovation through unconventional textiles and hand crafted detailing traversing the borderline between couture extravagance and everyday wearability.

Frederick Jenkyn

 

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Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Global Fashion Industry, Photography

Lights. Cameras. Heaven.

June 28
Bill Cunningham, New York photographer. Passed away at age 87 years after a stroke.

“The problem is I’m not a good photographer. To be perfectly honest, I’m too shy. Not aggressive enough. Well, I’m not aggressive at all. I just loved to see wonderfully dressed women, and I still do. That’s all there is to it.”

– Bill Cunningham

This morning, as I drank my morning coffee and dreamily looked out the window, my eyes rested on a postcard sitting near me. The title was, “The King Is Dead”.

It is not often that I am totally affected by the passing of someone whom I have never met, spoken to, or even seen in person.

But this time was different.

Saturday, June 25 2016 was a sad day for the global fashion industry.

I woke that morning, Sydney time, with a heavy heart, to find that the iconic Bill Cunningham, the famous bicycle pedalling street photographer, and dedicated columnist for the New York Times, will no longer be seen in mid-town New York capturing his special version of visual fashion delights.

Bill has crossed over, and is now travelling on a runway of a different kind.

Bill Cunningham was special. Eccentric. Dedicated. One of a Kind. And. He Will Be So Missed.

It has literally taken me days to comprehend that he is gone. At least from my current world.

And so this post is dedicated to Bill.

A man I never met, but a man that I know has affected so many lives with his work. As I write these words I realise what an incredible thing that is.  To actually be such a contributory pillar of artistic genius that causes fashion lovers across the world to mourn his passing.

Bill is someone that I would have loved to have met, even briefly. For whatever reason, that was not to be. But it actually doesn’t matter because I hold such gratitude for the contribution he has made to my life. And to my own passion for fashion.

And there is that word again. Contribution.  Ahh yes! That word has been spoken about a lot lately, post Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, Sydney 2016.

Contribution.
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Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Fashion Designer, Interview, MBFWA

The new VANguard … Jessica VAN

June 22
A model walks the runway in a design by Jessica Van at the The Innovators: Fashion Design Studio show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Resort 17 Collections at Carriageworks on May 20, 2016 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Stefan Gosatti/Getty Images)

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 2016 was really no different to me than it was last year in a general sense. I always love every minute of it.

If there is one, I am “the” tragic fashion week attendee.

This week is one where I cover all fashion designers, established or emerging, international and local. For those of you who know me my greatest love and the fire that drives the passion in my fashion belly, is that of the emerging designer.  

This year, my heart beat faster than usual in the frow. Why you ask? Because of the person who happens to be the subject of this editorial.

One Miss Jessica Van. 

It took precisely five minutes of my life to view the very first Jessica Van collection. An even shorter moment to recognise that I had just witnessed the work of a young designer, and currently relatively unknown designer, who I believe, is headed for the greatest of success. Words cannot describe how much I loved this collection.

I can hear you asking why?

Because sometimes, you just know.

You see an extraordinary talent and the beginnings of something huge and untapped, wrapped up in fabrication of the designs which parade in front of you on the runway.  

Jessica is young, inexperienced, and understandably in awe of a cut throat, competitive, and saturated industry.

She is also genius, dedicated, passionate, humble, and possibly one of the best young designers I have ever seen. She is full of hope and blessed with a dose of the smarts. She sees her designs as wearable art, and indeed they are. She understands the road she is about to travel and so do I.

She is, I believe a designer to watch, because if I am right, I think we will be seeing her name up in lights. And soon.

Here is her story.

Jade xx

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Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Events, MBFWA

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia 2016

May 26
Standing in front of the promotional board at Carriagework for Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Sydney.

Last week I aged about five years. Just as well I was wearing my new Pradas. Like Anna Wintour. Except that I wasn’t wearing them to be cool. No. Just to cover up my very tired face.

This was our last day at Carriageworks, the sun was going down on the event for this year, quite literally.

I loved every single moment!

It is my most favourite week of the year. Strange you might say if it’s my favourite week. Why am I stating negatives? Yes. I can see what you mean.  But as wonderful as it is, it is a crazy mix of the greatest excitement you could ever imagine, and the most exhausting of any weeks, all at the same time. It is hype on top of hype. The excitement of seeing the most beautiful people once again, and naturally to catch up in person with all my fashion friends who live all over Australia.

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 2016 or MBFWA.  A phenomenal week of the “work” kind of socialising, meeting industry friends, and of course, the reason we all go … to witness, enjoy and revel in the sheer talent of fashion design that Australia is known for.

An industry event full of buyers, bloggers, fashion journalists, editors, spotters, public relations teams, celebrities, and the Who’s Who of the Australian fashion world. I have lost track of how many shows I watched across the week, but what shows they were.

Opened by the incredible Toni Maticevski in the most inspiring of venues, Bangaroo.

Closed by the legendary, Oscar de la Renta, now passed, but Oh! how ‘The Legend’ lives on. It was full house indeed, and any wonder.  Elegance personified is our Oscar, and what a treat is was to be able to be present.

Bangaroo is just an incredible place, period. But for a fashion show? Simply memorable. Most of the other shows were at Carriageworks in Sydney’s Everleigh, and of course, like always there were the “off site” shows, like the one at Bradfield Park in Sydney’s north. Literally under the Harbour Bridge at 9am on a beautiful clear morning, with blue sky and perfectly acquainted by crisp Autumnal air, the Manning Cartell girls did not disappoint.  A stunning collection.

Mid week another highlight for me was the McGraw show. Speaking of sisters who never disappoint, I thought this show was beautifully balanced in every way.  A great collection. A fun collection.  Gorgeous models. Smiling models! Great choice of music and a beautiful happy, original, and unforgettable set!

I proudly tell everyone about MBFWA and my involvement there, because I am truly chuffed at the amazingness we get to call Australian fashion. We are expertly creative and distinctively original in the way we interpret and present fashion. We are a hub of far-away design genius as far as I am concerned and the rest of the world rightly watches in awe when we show our very best Fashionista selves.  I will be posting many interviews in the coming weeks about MBFWA Resort 2017 but for now, as a teaser, I thought you might enjoy a taste of my fashion week video gallery.

Until next time,

Jade xx

We are still young but you will never find passion like ours.

 

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Coat Hanger Logo done in black on white in the style of chinese calligraphy and paint brushing style with the words Label Ministry placed in capital letters below it.

 

 

 

 

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Fashion Designer, Interview, MBFWA

Jason Hewitt – Next Generation

May 26
SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA - MAY 20: A model walks the runway in a design by Jason Hewitt at the St.George Project NextGen show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Resort 17 Collections at Carriageworks on May 20, 2016 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Stefan Gosatti/Getty Images)

Last week, I attended Mercedes Benz Fashion Week for the whole glorious week!

It is my most favourite week of the year.

Industry professionals line up eagerly each and every year to view the current landscape of Australian fashion and the ever increasing talent of the emerging designer market.

As always, I am there to champion, encourage, and cover editorially, the high stakes game of Australian fashion. The designers, established and emerging, and their often forgotten, phenomenal creative teams.

It was a great privilege to see these very talented individuals forging ahead in the Australian fashion scene and I can only hope that it continues with great vigour.

“Project NextGen is an initiative that is intended to provide a platform to discover and support emerging Australian fashion designers. By connecting these gifted individuals with an experienced panel of industry insiders, the program mentors Australian talent to help them hone a broad range of skills and elevate their profile through industry connections and ongoing business support”. 

The winners this year were Anna Quan, Holystone (Renee Sealey), Jason Hewitt, Kaliver (Roni Cross), Monster Alphabets (Sarah Ryoko Watanbe), and Third Form (Merryn Kelly).  Judged by the following panel, Edwina McCann (Editor-In-Chief Vogue Australia, Kellie Hush (Editor-In-Chief Harper’s Bazaar Australia), Justin O’Shea (Buying Director mytheresa.com), Emily Weight (Director Fashion IMG Australia), Eva Galambos (Director & Buyer Parlour X), Chris Buchanan (GM Ellery), Donna Player (Merchandise Director David Jones), and Kelly Francis (Fashion Director MADE), we now find ourselves watching the final product. Project NextGen 2016.

Jason Hewitt showed his Resort 17 Collection.

 

Get out of H&M and Topshop and Forever New, and all that crap. It’s bad for the environment and it’s bad for you. Ultimately it won’t satisfy. Start buying quality, and curate a wardrobe of things you cherish.

That. Is. Style.

Jason Hewitt

 

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA - MAY 20: A model walks the runway in a design by Jason Hewitt at the St.George Project NextGen show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Resort 17 Collections at Carriageworks on May 20, 2016 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Stefan Gosatti/Getty Images)

Jason Hewitt Resort 17 Collection | Photographer | Stefan Gosatti | Getty Images

LM

What is the philosophy behind your label?

JH

It’s two fold.

Firstly, Every aspect of your business should be as sustainable and ethical as possible and should not define one as a designer.

Secondly, I enjoy creating pieces that I am proud of and which resonate with people.

LM

What is the inspiration behind your label?

JH

Depends really, it’s so varied. I’m inspired by life, but that sounds a bit new-age-hippy for me. I like contemporary art, culture, reading. I was looking at an interview with JW Anderson recently where he said he wants Loewe to come from a place of culture – I think I agree with that. I’m so fascinated by different cultures, and how they’re presented and old traditions are updated. I think that’s what drives a lot of the things I’m interested in.

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA - MAY 20: A model walks the runway in a design by Jason Hewitt at the St.George Project NextGen show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Resort 17 Collections at Carriageworks on May 20, 2016 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Stefan Gosatti/Getty Images)

Jason Hewitt Resort 17 Collection | Photographer | Stefan Gosatti | Getty Images

LM

What do you think of today’s street fashion?

JH

There’s not really much to think. People should wear what they feel good in. It’s not really my place to have an opinion on it (I dress like an absolute slob most of the time) but I do sometimes take inspiration from the way people put things together.

The street fashion thing feels a bit like an Oroborous these days. Trends are taken from the street and then fed back, like a closed loop. I don’t know if that’s going to generate anything new in terms of design so I do wonder if street fashion isn’t just becoming rather watered down … Normcore, a trend so boring it didn’t need to be named.

LM

Lol!  (Normcore is a unisex fashion trend characterized by unpretentious, average-looking clothing).
LM

What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers?

JH

Learn how to make clothes, properly, before you start designing them. Take your inspiration from anywhere, but avoid looking at other designers unless it’s for a historical point of reference or a preferred silhouette. Look at other designers work from a construction point of view not design. Go to museums, read books, get off your phone, close your computer and take it all in. The internet is a great resource but it’s not the same as the real thing.

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Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Fashion Designer, Interview, Styling

Super Style Me – Bec Cole

May 15
Model standing on an airfield in a beautiful white flowing dress, completely lace up open boots and vintage beaded head gear with an old fashioned aircraft taking off the background behind her. Very hollywood setting and incredibly creative the a real feel of movement to the picture.

I first discovered the work of Bec Cole when I was at VAMFF earlier this year.  Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival is always a treat as it combines the week long excitement of the runway with a cultural taste of Melbourne itself, and it truly is a wonderful delicatessen of fashion experience.

On one of the last days, through the haze of my exhaustion I could feel my interest pique when I saw Bec’s work, and made a mental note to myself as I do to remember to contact her with a view to highlight the obvious dedication to her work when I returned home.

Bec is one of the highly talented, hard working stylists, and passionate devotees of the Australian fashion industry, who travels far and wide to bring us the wonderful smorgasbord of visual delight that only such a stylist can.

A kind of creative hero if you like. I feel we tend to forget the amazing creative minds and teams who sit behind the creation of the collections of fashion designers. Personally, I believe it is so important to remember to applaud the work of these dedicated professionals who work tirelessly behind the scenes.

Very loudly.

Enjoy xx

Girl sitting on a rock with the late grey and cloudy sky behind looking down dressed in a black dress and a very wide black leather belt.

Stylist |Bec Cole | Photographer | Benn Jay | Hair & Makeup | Blanka Dudas

LM

What do you believe is the role of “the stylist”?

BC

A stylist is a visual translator….helping a designer, art director or editor achieve a look, story and campaign brief. It’s helping create a visual reality….This can be anything from dressing talent, liaising with designers to designing sets and alternative worlds.

I have a background in set design, so I love seeing a whole vision come to life….this includes not only the wardrobe side of things, but the propping, set design….even the casting of the talent /  models. It’s helping everything come together visually to tell the whole story.

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Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Photography, Styling

Colouring In

April 6

 

If you put something together and it doesn’t look so good, the fashion police are not going to come take you away. And if they do, you might have some fun in jail.

Iris Apfel

 

The wonderful American Style Queen, Iris Apfel, commenting on how women combine the elements of good dressing …

well, after all, Iris should know …

 

Picture of the American fashion icon and style influencer, Iris Apfel.

 

 

Who better than Iris to show us all how to put the ultimate in fashion craziness together with some other garments which equals perfection?

Our current world is so homogenised in every way. And the way we dress has become a victim to it. Whatever happened to wearing crazy colours, either on their own, or together?  I have styled many people over the years who have been afraid to wear colour. Want to add colour to your wardrobe? Here’s how.

Remember that colour does not have to be always worn near the face.  It can be introduced into an outfit with colourful shoes or a handbag.

Wear colours that make you feel good and remember that as we age, hair colour and skin tone changes. Revise your colour choices often. Finding confidence in this ability is how we all secure a connection with our own confidence and creates our sense of wellbeing. Be prepared to take a “fresh look” at yourself and reassess how you can improve your image.  If you’re not comfortable wearing colourful garments introduce colours through nail varnish, lipstick or your hair!

 

Model with blue hair standing in colourful skirt and top with high heeled white shoes for a campaign shoot.

Photography & Styling | Karlstrom Creatives

 

Colour does not have to take the form of block colour. Sometimes we look better in plain colours or colours that are infused within a pattern.

If you prefer to wear plain, block colours because you feel they suit you better, try introducing patterns and interesting prints through cute shoes and handbags.  Another idea is the simple layering of colour underneath another block colour, such as white or black. I like to call it ‘colour referencing’.

Remember, all you are trying to achieve is a “joining of the dots” effect – a visual reference of design and colour, continuity and harmony.

Colourful tops, and even tops with a blend of more muted colours, can look great underneath plain understated jackets.

 

turquoise

 

An outfit of block colours works a treat with a gorgeous pair of leopard print ballet flats and a stylish Gucci handbag! Things do not necessarily have to match but there does need to be a marriage of harmonious elements and colour tone. Tonally they work together and there is enough visual space between the two items to make the combination work. The natural balance of the outfit then becomes effortless and an understated elegance of good quality and taste becomes the highlighted theme.

All beautifully constructed outfits and exceptional dressing comes down to the combination of colour and texture, and the ability to achieve the all-important balance of proportion.

It is always a good idea to be generally aware of what is trending, not because your individual style depends on this, but because it allows you to have a choice of product in every season to add different elements of value to your wardrobe.

 

Picture of a girls face with clear round plastic sunglasses in a 1950's style showing the reflection of the surrounds in the lenses with bright red lipstick.

Photography & Styling | Karlstrom Creatives

 

 

If you wear black or grey, wear colour that compliments your main palette. Try to move outside of the normal combination. For instance, lime green and acid yellow are exceptionally beautiful with black. Gerbra pink is divine with charcoal.

If you are teaming these items with jeans or casual trousers, bring the reference of colour from the top of your body (ie. lime green top), down to the feet with gorgeous flats in a tonally appropriate colour, or paint your toe nails in a tonally balanced shade in open-toed heels.

Introduce visual depth and weight and experiment with colour, tone and texture.

Adhering to these general rules will mean that you achieve a lovely balance in your wardrobe that you will be pleased to visit every day!

Until next time,

Jade xx

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Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Global Fashion Industry

NarcisSista Fashionista

April 1
Facial Shot of Kim Kardashian

“Fashion is the armor to survive the reality of everyday life

Bill Cunningham

I’ve always loved the word Fashionista, even though it is not young any more and has been totally overdone now.

How about Narcissista Fashionista? A little ugly I feel but in some cases, unfortunately does have a ring of honesty about it?

This article is not your conventional article about one’s love of fashion, although the author is most certainly a lover of not only fashion, but the industry itself. Perhaps I am one of the greatest lovers of fashion of all time. Every now and again I feel the need to express something that is really bothering me. Something I believe is affecting us all on some level.

As a woman who loves fashion, and wears it with pride and excitement I appreciate it as an art form. I revere the designers whose souls bleed passion and despair, and very often, blood, because they are so in love with their chosen trade. Business people they are often not, without the obvious trials and tribulations of learning, but without doubt, human fountains of talent and commitment to the industry they adore. That in itself captures my personal respect and dedication. And my desire to support them and become their complimentary PR company.

As a small child, I changed my outfits multiple times in a day. Why? Because I could.

I have no idea why I have always been so drawn to fashion. I was a little girl who loved colour, pattern, looking pretty and the very feel of a different fabric on my skin. Not to mention the obvious attention that I received from people around me when they noticed that I had created a gorgeously cute and colourful outfit which provided a visual spectacle. Remember of course, I was only five years old, so the scenario was a simple one.

As I became older, my love of fashion matured and grew with me. I realised that it was the key to one’s individuality and the express permission we give ourselves to authentically adorn the world with our chosen cloth.

Once upon a time, the concept of such was a given. The world of fashion and our chosen favourite fashion designers allowed us to explore the idea of individualism fully. We revelled in the idea of being happy with the way we looked and improving upon it. We did not feel the need to look twenty-five for our entire lives. We were not worried that if we had a line on our face that we might, and probably would be, put out to pasture. We knew that wisdom and life experience counted for something, and that when the journey of our lives started to show on our faces, it was something to be proud of. We did not spend money that we didn’t have on botox, injectibles, or augmentation of body parts that we did not need or could easily afford. I am not totally against these procedures, but I do believe that too much work can make us look like aliens to ourselves and others.  We did not always obsess about all the hidden parts of ourselves, that no one even really sees or even wants to see, years ago. Correct me if I am wrong, but it almost seems like we have become totally obsessed with the parts of ourselves which are quite private. It seems normal to me now that nearly every second person sports at least one tattoo, piercing or very often both.

The value system and the things that we placed importance upon did not demand the spring of eternal youth, as it does now. Colouring our hair, colouring in our skin like colouring books, and creating hairless bodies and landscaping private pieces of ourselves so that we may be more acceptable to others, has almost become a full time occupation outside of our working lives.

No. We concentrated more fully on being the best we could be by developing ourselves, not changing our appearance.

When our culture, our society and our lives were culturally healthier than they are today, we used fashion to provide us with the vehicle we needed to develop our self confidence and underpin our creative expression of self through the unique canvas that God graciously gifted us.

Our desire to dress and our enjoyment of such created important growth and sustainability of local and global fashion industries. This growth provided ongoing opportunity for our wonderful creative minds to freely design, as individuals, and dare I say, created thousands of jobs. It afforded an atmosphere where confident designers could be inspired, driven by their own passion and be encouraged to create without the tsunami of suffocation caused by the commercial pressure to succeed and the current unsatisfactory model of mass fashion consciousness.

We were not stuck in the gridlock of limited choice and the destructive habit of purchasing fast, furious collections of fashion that flood our shopping malls at all too regular intervals.

We are continuously fed these sub-quality lines of fashion by the likes of fashion giants and seem happy to justify or just ignore the damage to our local industry, because they are cheap and feed our constant need for newness and crude consumerism. But that is the problem. The greedily take up the most prominent spaces in our shopping malls and steal our annual fashion spend.

The question is why?

Why have we forgotten our own? Why don’t we support our own breed of wonderful, unique, individual designers who used to have the courage to open stores and bravely show their collections every season?

I have the answer for you. It was because they knew that we would support them.

Sadly that is not the case any more. We can’t be bothered. Our fashion economy has become homogenised, crippled, and quite frankly pretty uninteresting. I believe that part of the problem is that we are expected to be happy wearing some or much of this limited offering and therefore are also expected, by-and-large, to be happy looking like everybody else.

To finish this article on a high note however, I am very pleased to report however that my recent visit to Melbourne Fashion Festival inspired me. I saw many wonderful collections, and witnessed much wonderful emerging talent. Young designers will full hearts and great enthusiasm for the industry they love.

Looks like the rules might just be starting to change … Hallelujah!

Until next time,

Jade xx

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Australian Fashion Industry, Interview, Melbourne Fashion Festival, Men

Article. by Courtney Holm

March 9
Model standing in a area of earth moving soil in casual sports luxe attire.

I have been talking recently about the rising talent of some emerging menswear designers in Australia.  They are the new breed of emerging talent, and I feel the shift of greatness realigning our current industry. At least as we know it. It feels like I have stepped on a veritable goldmine of dynamic, enthusiastic, talented, passionate and downright savvy artists who have decided that the business of dressing men, needs … well, addressing.

Quite literally.

And how lucky are we that they seem to sitting right in our backyard.

Downunder.

Melbourne actually.

Ready for the upcoming fashion festival in Melbourne, VAMFF.

The spotlight for this article, is Courtney Holm. The name behind the label known quite simply as Article.bch.

Courtney graduated with First Class Honours from the University of Technology Sydney and her debut at L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival in 2013 led her to re-locate to Melbourne. It’s not hard to see why I loved interviewing Courtney, a young, dynamic, talented designer, who seems to have boundless energy.  Not only is she putting a collection on the runway at VAMFF in a couple of days, she also got married a couple of weeks ago. And I thought I was busy!

She is described by NJAL (Not Just A Label) as “the designer and director of sports-luxe Australian menswear label”, and that her “label is distinct for its assimilation of pop-culture street styling, elemental sportswear and tailoring details”, which is “designed and hand produced in Melbourne, injecting a fresh equilibrium of functional, high-end fashion into a niche menswear market”. And, “her use of varied materials, such as polyurethane plastics, luxury knits, sportswear and hard-wearing materials with quality cottons, silks and wool give each piece inner softness with an overriding masculine exterior. The amalgamation of high fashion detailing with sportswear and street style makes a bold statement while the prevalence of functionality, style and fit ensure a wearable outcome for a discerning customer”. 

Perhaps I should start this piece by sharing what I thought was a wonderful piece of her wisdom.

 

Support other brands by being a nice human and treating your fellow colleagues with respect, share contacts with them and collaborate.

 

I firmly believe in supporting local industries. As long as we have a Melbourne manufacturing industry and I am a part of the Melbourne community, I will support it.

 

LM

Firstly, I LOVE your menswear label. What inspired you to design for men?

ABCH

Thanks Jade. I started the menswear journey at university. I was studying fashion design at UTS which is primarily targeted at teaching womenswear design. In my third year we did a menswear subject and everything kind of fell into place. I’d been struggling to find any satisfaction in womenswear design, but as soon as I began designing clothing for men, it felt right. I decided to major in menswear in my honours year. From there, I just knew that was what I was good at and I wanted to pursue it. I started my label a few years later after working with some amazing designers such as Romance Was Born and Strateas Carlucci.

LM

Why sports-luxe, and what is the finer definition of this term in your view?

ABCH

I have been championing this style since before I graduated but for Article. by Courtney Holm, sport-luxe is not just a catchy phrase. It’s a timeless way of styling and designing. I design high-end fashion, but it is heavily influenced by the things in my world. One of those things is health and fitness and a love for the comforts and technicality of sportswear, such as technical fibres, compression panelling, elasticated waistbands, pullovers and drawstrings. I weave these things into high fashion garments to make them the ultimate wearable goods. To me, this term means a sense of quality and durability.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

Article. by Courtney Holm

LM

I believe the production of your garments is in Melbourne … has that been challenging for you to maintain?

ABCH

Yes, all my goods, apart from a t-shirt which is manufactured in Sydney, is produced in Melbourne. It is definitely a challenge, especially for keeping costs down. That is the hardest thing. I firmly believe in supporting local industries. As long as we have a Melbourne manufacturing industry and I am a part of the Melbourne community, I will support it. I feel sad that so many industries are seeing manufacturing go offshore, fashion included. I believe that soon there will be a return to local manufacturing and buying, but if we lose all our skills here in the meantime, it won’t be good news for our fashion labels in the future. 

LM

What do you see as the main challenges for an emerging designer in Australia?

ABCH

The main challenges I have faced are finding the right stockists for my niche non-traditional menswear market. Also, Australia has so many amazing designers, but often they are forced to go overseas and prove themselves offshore before they are fully embraced by our country. I find this annoying if anything. It’s also a challenge when starting a fashion business if you don’t have a lot of capital upfront, you have to wear so many hats for a long time until the business is profitable. 

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

LM

Do you believe that the Australian fashion industry as a whole is supportive of emerging designers?

ABCH

I believe that in Melbourne there is more support for emerging designers than in other cities in Australia. I have lived in both Brisbane and Sydney, but the support in the Melbourne community has been outstanding in comparison. I still think we have such a long way to go if we compare ourselves to what other countries do to support their emerging designers, including fashion business specific grants, championing local manufacturing, industry contacts and mentoring. Fashion is a massive industry with huge potential in Australia, but often fashion businesses are not treated with the same respect.

LM

If you could change three things about the support structure of our current industry, what would they be?

ABCH

  • More pathways to funding/investors for fashion businesses
  • More support from Australian media/PR agencies for emerging designers
  • Initiatives that reward and champion local manufacturing. Reinvent “Made in Australia”. This should be something to be proud of.

LM

Do you think it is more difficult to design for men than women?

ABCH

No. I find designing for men much more satisfactory and it comes more naturally to me.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

LM

Is the market of male consumers easier to please on the whole, or do you think it is more challenging than the womenswear market?

ABCH

I think it is more challenging in Australia, as men dress much more conservatively. What you see is really either formal/corporate or casual street/surf wear. It’s a small market of men who are truly “fashionable” in this country, however it is growing! Overseas the market is larger, but the competition is greater. 

LM

What is your view of the importance of showing your collections on the runway?

ABCH

I think it is so important to show the world that Article. by Courtney Holm is not going anywhere.

We are here to stay, and are a reputable brand who intends to grow! I think it’s important to keep being involved in runway shows as at this stage, it’s the best way to get your collection “out there” and I am using this runway to launch my latest collection which I am so excited to reveal on Thursday!

LM

I understand you use a lot of technical fabrics. Could you please explain what this actually means and how these are fabrics produced?

ABCH

Technical fabrics utilise modern technology to create a fabric that is somehow enhanced or gives a greater performance than a woven or knitted natural fibre in the traditional sense is able to. I use coated waterproof fabrics and zippers, super lightweight membranes that weigh just over half an once per metre, ripstop fabrics that don’t tear under duress and compression fabrics that improve circulation. Mostly these fabrics are produced with technical yarns woven into the fabrics. Some are coated. Nanotechnology has allowed man-made fibres to be modified beyond what used to be perceived as cheap polyesters and the like. Now these materials are highly technical in their molecular makeup and refined for specific performance use in mind. It’s quite fascinating, especially when you start to mix these with natural fibres. 

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

LM

What are the benefits of creating these fabrics?

ABCH

It’s the future!

Imagine a lightweight fabric that is as strong as armour? Or a material that releases smells, sounds or temperature changes? Imagine clothes that can change colour on their own to reflect your mood? The technology is already here, it’s just a matter or time before they are readily integrated into our clothing. Some things will be incredibly useful and powerful, other things will be purely for aesthetic and fun. The materials I use in my collections are just scratching the surface of what is possible. 

LM

Who would you describe as the Article. by Courtney Holm man?

ABCH

He’s a guy who loves to dress for himself. He doesn’t mind colour, cool fabrics or standing out. He is a creative and a thinker, he is into fitness, health and technology. However, ultimately he wants the clothes to feel amazing on his skin and last for a lifetime of use. 

LM

How do you believe the menswear market differs in Australia to international markets?

ABCH

I mentioned earlier that the Australian market is more conservative, I think there are a greater number of guys overseas dressing to stand out and to make their own statement. I think in Australia, these statements are made by wearing socks with suit pants, or having one unique accessory. We are much more conservative and slower on the uptake of trends. It’s gradually changing and I do see more guys dressing with some interesting ideas especially as new menswear labels pop up and gain momentum here. 

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

LM

Do you see yourself growing and expanding to other markets and if so, where?

ABCH

Yes, my hit list is Korea, Hong Kong, Japan and London.

LM

What is your view generally about ethical and sustainable fashion?

ABCH

I believe every fashion business has to make a choice about whether they will go for the cheapest option, or the more sustainable and ethical option. Sometimes these two things align, but often they don’t. Everyday choices towards wastage, how you treat people in and outside of your business and research about where your products come from and the people involved are what make you sustainable and ethical.

You can’t claim ignorance in our current climate, it’s just not good enough. We have all the resources at our fingertips, and it takes a lot of work and time to investigate the various options we have in sourcing, manufacturing and delivery but I believe that it’s essential to ensure our future. 

LM

Where does the inspiration for the designs on your fabrics come from?

ABCH

Various things that take my interest. Body parts, photos I have taken of my drape work, sketches and more. Usually it’s a very literal thing that I will manipulate over and over until I get an abstract result that I am visually excited by.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

LM

Please tell me more about your love of pop culture, street styling, and elemental sportswear?

ABCH

I love sportswear, I am also a pilates instructor and personal trainer, so active clothing elements are always are part of my designs. I love styling. I have quite a knack for it and feel I can take the garments apart and reconstruct them in many different ways to achieve various looks. The street look is what I am aiming to promote through the label. Pop-culture icons have inspired me as I love the way an individual can champion a look and the two can become almost inseparable. 

LM

You describe your garments as ethical. What does this entail across the entire process of production?

ABCH

  • Minimise wastage in development and cutting. 
  • Engaging manufacturers that are legal, treat their workers fairly and don’t outsource without your knowledge – this is much easier to do if you live in the same country you manufacture in!
  • Treat your employees well and fairly, this includes your sub-contractors and your interns.
  • Don’t claim ignorance. It’s really hard to know where everything comes from, especially fabrics. Keep searching and investigating all that goes into your brand and make everyday improvements.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

LM

Do you love what you do?

ABCH

Yes.

LM

What advice would you give to emerging designers? I recently read an article which claimed fashion design is a ‘false dream’. What do you think?

ABCH

It’s hard to say without reading the article personally. Fashion can seem glamorous and all, but it’s really a hard slog. I think people realise that the hard way a lot of the time. If you go to a good university, they should prepare you for that. In saying that, don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t do something or that it will never work. They might be right, but they might be wrong. Take all the feedback with a pinch of salt, and think critically of your own work. 

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

LM

What do you envisage for the future of the Australian fashion industry?

ABCH

I envisage a return to local manufacturing and the revitalisation of our industry.

I’d love to see (or create) a hub for fashion designers to develop, grow and emerge into the world from the design studio space. A space which offered manufacturing, printing, knitting and dyeing capabilities and a place where designers are truly supported by the local government and media. 

LM

Where would you like to see yourself in five years from now?

ABCH

Running a financially lucrative business that is able to continue to pioneer new styles in menswear around the world while also supporting the local industry. Creating new jobs and helping to develop other emerging designers. 

LM

What are you most looking forward to in the showing of your collection at VAMFF?

ABCH

Hanging out with all the other amazing designers, seeing my clothes come down the catwalk for the first time and launching what will be our biggest year and collection yet!

LM

Go Courtney! Label Ministry will be there cheering you on! Check out Article. bch!

Accreditations:

Design & Styling| Courtney Holm | Facebook | Twitter| Instagram

Photography | Brooke Holm | Facebook | Instagram

Creative Direction | Graphic Design: Instagram 

HMUA | Chantal Lee |  Chantal Lee

Model | Tom Brennan | Instagram 

Pop Video Accreditations:

Design & Styling | Courtney Holm  

Shot, Cut & Directed by |  Noel Smyth 

Music | Marcus Hollands | Instagram

Talent | James Kremers (Scene) | Instagram

Hair and Makeup | Martell Hunt

Until next time,

Jade xx

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