The new VANguard … Jessica VAN

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 2016 was really no different to me than it was last year in a general sense. I always love every minute of it.

If there is one, I am “the” tragic fashion week attendee.

This week is one where I cover all fashion designers, established or emerging, international and local. For those of you who know me my greatest love and the fire that drives the passion in my fashion belly, is that of the emerging designer.  

This year, my heart beat faster than usual in the frow. Why you ask? Because of the person who happens to be the subject of this editorial.

One Miss Jessica Van. 

It took precisely five minutes of my life to view the very first Jessica Van collection. An even shorter moment to recognise that I had just witnessed the work of a young designer, and currently relatively unknown designer, who I believe, is headed for the greatest of success. Words cannot describe how much I loved this collection.

I can hear you asking why?

Because sometimes, you just know.

You see an extraordinary talent and the beginnings of something huge and untapped, wrapped up in fabrication of the designs which parade in front of you on the runway.  

Jessica is young, inexperienced, and understandably in awe of a cut throat, competitive, and saturated industry.

She is also genius, dedicated, passionate, humble, and possibly one of the best young designers I have ever seen. She is full of hope and blessed with a dose of the smarts. She sees her designs as wearable art, and indeed they are. She understands the road she is about to travel and so do I.

She is, I believe a designer to watch, because if I am right, I think we will be seeing her name up in lights. And soon.

Here is her story.

Jade xx

The industry is incredibly hard, working always one or two seasons ahead, the whole cycle of business in fashion seems almost impossible to maintain. I applaud all designers who have given it a shot, and as for someone who one day aspires to have a successful business I can truly appreciate that these designers who have gone broke have done so after exhausting every avenue possible. The consumer environment is becoming more cut throat, the population more frugal and more and more fast fashion giants offering rock bottom prices making it often extremely difficult to compete.

Jessica Van

LM

What is your philosophy behind your label?

JV

I believe in the exploration and journey of experimentation. Letting the inspiration come from our environment and the world around us to create innovative and organic design deeply founded and driven by curiosity and observation.

LM

What is the inspiration behind your label?

JV

My biggest inspiration is our environment. I see so many beautiful things that we let pass us by every day. By exploring these observations, delving deeper, I am taken on a creative journey fuelled by mother nature.

LM

What do you think of today’s street fashion?

JV

I think there are areas of street fashion that excite me. Different personalities and identities from all walks of life. There is a strong push for what is safe and minimal in fashion. I appreciate minimal fashion, and its sophistication and functionality, but let us all not forget to savour the moments where we use the opportunity of our fashion choices to express ourselves and not rely on it solely, as a mode for every day function.

LM

What advice do you give to aspiring fashion designers?

JV

Stay true to yourself and your ideas. Do you. Don’t try and be anyone else. Everyone has their own opinions, at the end of the day it is yours that you have to live with.

LM

What is your advice to young women and the way they dress?

JV

Be yourself. Be comfortable in your own skin. Fashion should excite you and make you feel like the best representation of yourself. You are your own identity, express yourself and impress yourself.

LM

What influence do you think social media has on the fashion industry?

JV

The industry is changing rapidly. Social media is paving the way for brands to reach consumers faster than ever before. Social influencers have an ever-increasing pull over trends and product marketing.

LM

What is your favourite social media platform?

JV

Instagram is my favourite social media platform. I am very much a visual person and I could spend hours flicking through so many beautiful photos from fashion, food and fitness.

LM

Why do you think this country has so few menswear designers?

JV

I think that Australia has quite a conservative consumer marketplace when in comes to men’s fashion. I do believe that our generation is becoming more open to ‘out of the box’ fashion.

In years past, the general public have been more inclined to purchase traditional and conservative apparel, leaving the marketplace dominated by fast fashion retail and department store giants.

LM

What do you think of the phenonmenon of fast fashion and how has it affected you as a local designer?

JV

The whole industry is affected by fast fashion.

The environmental impact in waste alone is alarming, let alone the working conditions of the people who are making the pair of jeans that cost $9.

Craftsmanship is becoming less valued and the price war that ensues is a battle that no small business can contend with.

As a local designer you need to think of product that has a point of difference. Something that makes your product different, valuable and covetable.

LM

When your designs are photographed how do you like to see them represented and on whom?

JV

I have designed for the wearer to be confident and ready to make an impression. Each garment is made as an outlet for expression.

LM

Do you rely on fashion bloggers to spread the word of your label? To what degree do you think they have had a serious effect on our industry?

JV

As I am extremely new to the industry I have welcomed all the attention that I can conjour up from the fashion blogging stratosphere.

Bloggers and journalists are definitely the driving force for me at the moment to bring new visitors to my webpage, Instagram and Facebook. Fashion bloggers have become the hottest marketing tool for the industry. Some of the most successful bloggers have an outreach of hundreds or thousands to millions of followers in the right demographic, and exposure like that is just unparalleled. It is no wonder that the right post from a fashion blogger can mean that product will sell out within minutes.

LM

Do you think our obsession with youth and only directing fashion to the very young has created a restricted playground for designers at large?

JV

I feel that the demographic you direct product to should obviously be the largest contributor to your business. What is the obsession with youth? If you pigeon hole your target market on either side, youth or otherwise, it could lead to dangerous territory.

LM

How hard have you found it to show your collections and make connections overseas?

JV

I only graduated a few months ago, and only have one collection so far which I showed at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia. This was an amazing opportunity for me.

I have not made connections overseas as yet, however I imagine it won’t be easy. Showing my next collection will be another adventure as I take the next steps to grow my label. I’m sure there will be tremendous hurdles to come.

LM

Do you feel like the industry as a whole helps you to succeed or do you feel alone in your quest?

JV

The industry is like a big dark sea and I feel like Nemo. There was great support through my education and leading up to the show. Now that it’s over I do feel a little lost. It is time to define what I want my label to be and where I want to take it next. There is an unspeakable amount of work ahead, experience is key and so is funding.

LM

Why do you think so many designers have gone broke in the last 10 years?

JV

A combination of the GFC, buyers becoming more frugal, fast fashion and the sheer nature of this industry is crushing small businesses trying to stay afloat in the marketplace.

The industry is dominated by fast fashion giants and it is becoming increasingly difficult for local businesses to survive. Manufacturing ethically is not cheap. Producing lines a season in advance, the overall cycle of the industry is almost impossible to maintain efficiently.

LM

How do you feel about the levels of support for the fashion industry in Australia?

JV

I don’t think I am quite seasoned enough to give a valid answer, however I believe that there are growing platforms and support developing for our emerging designers in particular.

Australia has a lot of young talent and it’s great to see initiatives such as the Australian Fashion Chamber and Flaunter media arising.

LM

What designers do you love in Australia? And Overseas?

JV

I love Australian designers such as Gail S0rronda, Dion Lee and Zimmermann. Internationally my favourites are Maison Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garcons.

LM

Do you think as a population we dress well?

JV

I think as a nation we dress quite well, often laid back, relaxed, with comfort and function. I would love to see more individuality in street style, people expressing themselves and not always conforming to the norms.

LM

Who do you think dresses the best, men or women?

JV

I don’t think you can really quantify it so generally. I do believe there is a wider range of options in the marketplace catering to womenswear but I don’t see it as ‘dressing better’ exactly.

LM

What do you think about the prevalence of tattoos and piercings?

JV

I think that people should have the freedom to express themselves in any way they choose. I believe some tattoos or piercings can hold significant meaning and can be works of art. In any case, this shouldn’t be rushed into and followed through for the right reasons.

LM

Are we becoming more modest or less modest in our self expression?

JV

I feel that as a population we are becoming more modest. Not many people are willing to stand out so much, minimal and monochrome is safe and these options are an investment. In times where we need to be frugal these trends will stick out as the obvious choice, and round and round we go blending into the crowd.

LM

Why do you think some designers have gone broke in recent times?

JV

The industry is incredibly hard, working always one or two seasons ahead, the whole cycle of business in fashion seems almost impossible to maintain. I applaud all designers who have given it a shot, and as for someone who one day aspires to have a successful business I can truly appreciate that these designers who have gone broke have done so after exhausting every avenue possible. The consumer environment is becoming more cut throat, the population more frugal and more and more fast fashion giants offering rock bottom prices making it often extremely difficult to compete.

LM

How do you cope with the commercial aspect of your design trade?

JV

For me this is not yet applicable. My fashion week collection was not made with the intention for production. The showcase delivered an example of my design aesthetic and signature. My next steps will be to evolve my designs to attain a commercial viability without losing my philosophy and signature, which for many young designers is very hard to achieve.

LM

How important is the role of a stylist to a fashion designer?

JV

When working on something so closely and for so long, a person can lose sight of the bigger picture.

Fresh eyes, a different perspective and opinion is a great asset. Not everyone will have the same taste as you, so reworking your garments into fresh new looks can be priceless.

LM

How important is runway exposure when offering a new collection?

JV

Runway exposure this year at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia has been incredible, to see the garments move on the body in perspective is something no static look book or photoshoot can achieve. Runway exposure can be a valuable exercise if it is financially viable.

LM

What do you think the fashion industry needs to offer which it is not?

JV

More transparency of manufacturing methods and ethics. Gender neutral marketing

LM

How do you differentiate your label from other designers who create similar lines?

JV

I only have one collection thus far. I made every piece and print by hand. They all have their own identity, which I gave them. I don’t look to either local designers, so as not to subconsciously be effected by the work of others.

I have not geared the range to any particular trend but maintained the soul source of inspiration within the environment and science. For me every piece is not just clothing that I want to churn out to the public, but a thoroughly thought out work translation of art.

Until next time,

Jade xx

Meet Jessica Van | Facebook | Instagram | Jessica Van |

Thanks To|

The Fashion Design Studio, Ultimo TAFE | Instagram | Facebook |

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia

Photography Accreditations |

Modal Soul Photo | Stefan Gosatti | Ichiro Taniguchi | Mark Nolan