Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Archives – Label MinistryLabel Ministry

Australian Designer, Australian Fashion, Australian Fashion Industry

My Journey … FROW to RUNWAY

May 28

A model shows a creation by Australian designer Aqua Blu during Fashion Week Australia in Sydney on May 16, 2019. (Photo by PETER PARKS / AFP) (Photo credit should read PETER PARKS/AFP/Getty Images)

Well, I’ve just had my birthday and that always means one thing … Fashion Week is over.

This year Sydney Fashion Week was a completely different experience for its devotees, as many less than positive media articles have already touched on. An event usually well patronised, it was unusually quiet and I have to agree that it wasn’t the well oiled machine of times past. But I think we can all agree we are in changing times aren’t we and as such, are collectively witnessing phenomenal transformations.

The absolute highlight this year was the Aqua Blu show; always a hit in the eyes of the media worldwide, but this year even more so.

For me, the Aqua Blu show rocked for a totally different and very personal reason.

You’ll notice the title of this article. FROW TO RUNWAY … My Journey.

Let me explain. Usually, I get to hang out in the front row …

Aussie Fashion, Australian Designer, Australian Fashion, Australian Fashion Industry

The Innovators – Fashion Design Studio 2019

May 13

So here we are again.

Fashion Week 2019.

It started with a bang last night at the AJE show which opened the week and which all fashionistas and industry heavy-weights wait for.

My fashion family are around me again. Simply. Excitement and hugs all ’round.

Day 1 this year is the day ‘The Innovators’, the FDS Alumni get to show Australian fashion devotees what they are truly capable of, not to mention the direction in which our beloved industry is travelling.

I am always in awe of the talent which struts that runway and this year will be no different. In fact, I have a sneaking suspicion that we are in for something really special.

I literally can’t wait to grace the FROW. I don’t always get to sit in the FROW and I am totally happy with that. I feel privileged to be able to attend any of the shows and feel blessed to be seated at all.

Sitting in the front row however at The Innovators show is an essential, because it is from this vantage point that I and many others can truly appreciate the blood, sweat and tears which have been spilled over these intricate and varied collections. Every detail, stitch, and beads of anxious perspiration that has baptised every, single, piece.

For these young designers, Fashion Week is EVERYTHING.

It is their introduction to playing with the Big Kids on the Block, and I should imagine it has its bloody scary moments.

I sat down and had a chat with Alex Zehntner, Senior Design Lecturer, followed by some insights of some of the designers who will be showing this year.

Please … Share the LOVE!

Fashion Week LOVE! Reuben Cheok, Fashionizer.TV and Jade Cosgrove, Label Ministry.

Alex Zehntner.

Senior Design Lecturer, person extraordinaire, lover of style, and creative mentor to Fashion Design Studio is utterly dedicated to the legacy we create for Australian emerging fashion designers.

We caught up this morning and he shared his thoughts about why FDS churns out the most fabulous talent, time and again, each and every year filling our fashion minds with respect and our fashion hearts with joy.

“All our full time staff have been with the school for over a decade, and have exceptional hands-on skills in all areas. We also work closely and carefully with industry experts who act as guest lecturers in their areas of speciality. Also, our part time teachers are currently working in the Australian fashion industry.

We are committed to teaching our students the importance of conceptual and original thinking. To understand the crucial and full aspects of the design process is key – from inception through to completion. There is enormous focus on traditional hand skills such as bespoke tailoring, couture hand finishing, menswear and sportswear, textile printing and surface design.

All students must be committed to building and successfully developing strong skills in all areas of fashion, fashion design, the history of fashion and its evolution, pattern cutting, drawing, textile and CAD design as well as business acumen.

This is done extensively and students dedicate hours to each subject. They must be deemed competent in order to pass each subject allowing them opportunity to continue on with the course.

Once they have completed two very intense years they are required to focus on a third year, culminating in their fashion design degree. This final year is filled with notions of collaborations and sustainability and this is infused consistently throughout the course. Also, in this final year, the students are guided through the global fashion industry and introduced to local and international artisans and contacts to create their final collections.

We already have a fabulous vehicle to showcase the seemingly never-ending talent that is FDS, but we need the industry itself to support emerging designers through financial grants, government interest and funding. A general nurturing and support from Australian industry platforms at large is necessary.

It is our greatest desire to see this sector grow so that we are able to provide the proper legacy for this country’s future fashion designers; something so many who have gone before, have been able to take for granted”.

Alex Zehntner – Senior Lecturer, Fashion Design Studio.

Sarah Moore – MANON

I began my career in nutrition after studying Health Science straight out of school, however I felt that something was missing from my life. After a period of reflection I decided follow my passion for beautiful, interesting and unusual fashion and become a fashion designer.

My short term plan was to work for a label so I could gain some insights into the industry and how it works. Now that I have completed fashion design I dream of having my own label and potentially working away from Sydney.

My label, MANON possesses a dark and moody tone. It sits in alignment with my desire to finding beauty in the duality and darker things in life.

I am drawn to monochromatic looks and garments which promote the layering of texture versus colour.

My choice in using limited colours forces me to broaden my aesthetic through the mastering of patterning and textile manipulations. Establishing the “signature” of my brand was the easiest part, and it is deeply linked in with my true nature and aspirations. My process is always developed around the particular mood and feeling that I want to convey and is always represented in the mixed media images which I create.

The target age for my brand is for women between 25-40 as I feel there is a significant gap in the market for this demographic. I focus on sustainability in my design process and this allows me to create garments which are “forever wearable”. I pay attention to utilising subtraction cutting methods which importantly reduce fabric wastage and wherever possible I include locally sourced natural fibres. FDS is not for the faint hearted. The course is tough and full-on, but I have left with enormously strong skills. I am extremely grateful for the wealth of knowledge which I can now confidently build my fashion future on.

George Habibeh

It’s very easy to learn to sew, design and create, but to take all this to a further level, requires an immense amount of well, sacrifice.

To manifest the dream of fashion week, every waking second must be devoted to the cause. For me being mentally prepared and strong is a very important aspect. Sitting in four walls, most days, can take its toll. Having systems in place to stay focused and motivated is important. Ted-Talks, fashion documentaries and fashion movies have kept me inspired. Strong support systems, family and my teachers at college with whom I could be open and honest were key.

Studying, FDS industry night, and now Fashion Week. My biggest anxiety was being able to juggle everything. I was never concerned about my skill of sewing, cutting or construction. I work 3-4 days in the industry and am blessed to have a brilliant team of hand sewers who did help me with hand work and embellishments.

Australian born to Lebanese parents, provided the combination of two very different cultures and has allowed me to break the mould of couture in Australian fashion. The excess and luxury of middle eastern fashion flows through my collections and my label is totally made in Australia.

This years collection “Azrael” is a narrative based on women and mental and emotional trauma. My demographic is women who have an appreciation for quality, handmade and intricately detailed garments. Couture is a very detailed, precise and tactile form of construction.

I’ve always loved the notion of a “Couture Maison”. To create an empire, home based to live, work, and meet clients is my dream.

One of the few things that the Australian fashion platform is missing, is support.

Label Ministry and other similar platforms are a fundamental cog in the fashion machine. It is so important that there are people writing about designers, getting to know who they are, what they do, and how they get to the point of creating a collection.

I find that Australian fashion has long been extremely commercialised; the sad reality is that designers that once made it due to their innovation and creativity are slowing acquiescing to the demands of what sells.

Mia Rodriguez – Mi’an’Mar

I’ve literally always wanted to be a fashion designer – right down to my early days in kindergarten where we asked to draw what we wanted to be. Mine said. Mia – Fashion Designer.

It means a great deal to be involved in Fashion Week. Long, long nights and hard work have paid off.

The opportunity is something I have been working towards for the last three years of my fashion life. I hope that literally everyone loves my collection.

Building dreams of a career in fashion is not an easy thing to accomplish and it is platforms like Label Ministry which help us to gain confidence in our careers, bringing publicity and attention through the coverage of our journeys, and to instil the importance in our minds of working hard and understanding that this equals success.

I have enormous confidence in my designs as I alone know, how much work goes into them. Naturally I hope that the industry at large will see this too. The fashion world is so hectic, but it is really a buzz to see everyone gathering around a runway to see what I have been designing and creating.

I’ve had a blast at FDS and looking back on it I have experienced such amazing moments. Our buying trip to China and India with our incredible design teacher, and then on to Paris and London for couture. Now Fashion Week! It’s so incredible.

I think the teachers at Fashion Design Studio … ROCK!

They care so much and they really push for all of us to succeed and excel!

In the lyrics of a song I liked, I remember the words … “He is not fancy; he just wears black”.

This epitomised the underlying basis of my brand aesthetic and largely formed the reason I use so much colour.

I think it’s fun to be bold and to be seen! You only live once so why go under the radar?

I use illustrations for all my garments and I firmly believe the inside should be just as important as the outside. If you look inside of any of my garments you’ll see hand drawn printed linings that tell a story.

I think, being a part of the fashion industry it’s so hard not to compare your designs and style to others, but I think my most brilliant moment was realising that there is no point comparing and now I can really embrace myself, my aesthetic and joyfully, my fashion future.

Mi’an’Mar … stands on its own.

Kate Ineson

Ineson’s aesthetic is refined, sophisticated, deconstructed, with a focus on tailoring, feminine draping and silhouettes designed to flatter the body.

The label, while highly conceptual, is firmly focused on remaining wearable and long lasting. It is designed for women of all ages, not trend focused.

Ineson almost exclusively used natural fibres.

I am ethically aware, and where I have outsourced labour, it has been done in Australia and a fair wage has always been paid.

Once the label goes into production, I would need to produce overseas however I would strive to always seek ethical options.

I studied and continue to explore traditional and unique pattern making methods. My collection merges these processes and expands upon them. This experimental approach creates the innovative silhouettes and details that Ineson strongly identifies with.

I think my passion and skill in pattern making is what sets me apart. My design process is mainly pattern making. I am not a designer who can design through illustration – I design as I drape and pattern make.

The textiles for this collection are inspired by Kylie Minogue’s music video, Slow, a pop-culture reference rich with elements which draw inspiration from a Barcelona skyline, rippling waters, and sunbathers upon pool tiles.

I chose to study at FDS because of their incredible Alumni.

The intensity and fast pace of the course means that only the students with passion and talent are successful.

Meet the designers here |

Sarah Moore MANON THE LABEL |

George Habibeh |

Mia Rodriguez MI’AN’MAR |

Kate Ineson

Until next time,

Jade xx

Australian Designer, Australian Fashion Industry, MBFWA

BACKSTAGE #mbfwa2018

June 14

Backstage at Fashion Design Studio at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Sydney at Carriageworks 2018.

Fashion Week is always special. And strangely, always, each and every year, in a different way.

For me, arriving there one year since the last time felt strange. So much has happened in one year, and quite literally months of my life had been devoted to a very important project, both for myself and for the Australian fashion industry. Those of you who know me, and now there are many, you will know that that project was none other than the Jurassic World Fallen Kingdom Runway, held in April of this year. I was thrilled to be able to work with, encourage, and develop the designers with whom I was so closely aligned on this project, as well as developing the concept in this country of working with international big guns who see benefit in fashion collaboration. This has long been my vision and I hope to see much more of it in the future.

Aussie Fashion, Australian Designer, Australian Fashion, Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Events, MBFWA

Camilla and Marc Day #1 MBFWA 2018

May 13

So, Camilla and Marc opened Australian Fashion Week tonight in tandem celebration with their 15th Anniversary, with an incredible show!

Well, of course it was incredible … it was Camilla and Marc!!! What more would one expect?

I loved the feeling of this show. Firstly, it was reminiscent of times past as it was held at the iconic Sydney space, The Royal Hall of Industries at Moore Park.

I was so delighted to see this gorgeous collection … beautiful brocades in pale palettes graced the runway followed by the re-invention of traditional power suiting. I think I even detected some shoulder pads, matched in strength by the oversized double breasted jacket in various checks with very lengthy arms. A little impractical you might say … but bloody fantastic on the runway! Continue Reading…

Aussie Fashion, Australian Designer, Australian Fashion, Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Events, MBFWA, Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 2018

The Innovators

May 17

For those who embrace rebellion and eccentricity every day.

Angela Lowe, EWOL

Fashion Design Studio, TAFE NSW Ultimo, is the home of many famous people.

If you wait for Mercedes Benz Fashion Week every year with the highest anticipation then welcome to my world.

If fashion is your thing you’re in the right place.

If emerging talent is your passion, then let me personally thank you, because your love is much appreciated.

By oh! soooo many!

This is the story of “The Innovators”.

Graduates of Fashion Design Studio.

Where Sydney fashion design is concerned, FDS is the home and very solid bedrock of many iconic established Australian fashion labels … Dion Lee, Akira Isogawa, Christopher Esber, Gary Bigeni, Nicky Zimmerman, and Bianca Spender to name a few.

It is a creative hub of design excellence, like no other.

Led by experienced, devoted, passionate, brilliant educators like the famous Nicholas Huxley, the wonderful Sophie Drysdale and Andrea Cainero, the walls are lined with the distinct flavour of adventures just begun.

And the fashion talent just keeps oozing out … Every. Single. Year.

Meet, “The Innovators” at this years Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 2017.

AMELIA AKLE

Amelia’s work is a reflection of all her interests; the inspiration of which is to embrace the classic feminine aesthetic and to represent a new-age feminine ideal. The collection is a combination of modernity and rebellion against traditional femininity. Internship at Zimmermann is where her specific interest in exceptional garment finishes and the perfect cut grew. Amelia was a winner in the World Square Fashion Illustration competition. During her final year of study, she collaborated with Vogue Australia and Witchery to create a piece for the ‘White Shirt Campaign’, in support of ovarian cancer. Recently pieces from her graduate collection appeared in the London-based ‘Schön’ magazine.

Meet Amelia Akle.

EWOL by ANGELA LOWE

Angela Lowe’s, EWOL exists at the periphery of normality. Where male and female overlap to create an ‘other’. Atypical in its use of material, its references and inspirations … EWOL blurs the boundaries of streetwear and high fashion to create wearable art worn by risk-takers. Those who relish the stares and the double takes.

Drawing inspiration from the juxtaposition of conflicting ideas – conviction and humour; masculinity and femininity. EWOL is for individuals who identify with a movement against the norm. For those who embrace rebellion and eccentricity every day. There are so many incredible things that we do not see with the naked eye.

Meet Angela Lowe. Ewol by Angela Lowe on Instagram.

ANN XIAO

A secret application to study fashion design, encouraged by her best friend and partner was the start of beautiful beginnings. As a child, Ann was an avid sketcher and would often design outfits for friends and family. It was only after partially completing an economics degree that she decided fashion was her real passion. She had found her voice, so to speak. YouTube tutorials helped Ann to learn the basics, followed by an internship with House of Quirky, Dion Lee, and Manning Cartell. She is now working as a womenswear and menswear design assistant at The Upside, with plans to look overseas to further broaden her horizons and gain insight into international markets.

Meet Ann Xiao. AnxDesigns on Instagram.

CASEA by CASEA HEWITT

Cassie Hewitt released her first collection in December 2016. She has formerly interned with Manning Cartell, Bianca Spender, Carla Zampatti and Sara Phillips. Cassie was a finalist for the Australian Fashion Foundation’s Annual Scholarship Program, where she presented her graduate collection to industry leaders. This year Cassie went on to win the Graduate of the Year Award for Fashion and Textiles at the Design Institute of Australia.

Each CASEA piece tells a story through vibrant signature prints, rich colours, intricate embellishment, craftsmanship and luxurious fabrics. CASEA challenges the misconception that fast fashion is sufficient if the price is “right”. The brand’s accentuation on quality and craftsmanship aims to create a world where the trend of expendable fashion is diminished and a high value is placed on heirloom and sentimental pieces.

Meet Cassie Hewitt. CASEA The Label on Instagram.

HANDSY SWIMWEAR

It took eighteen months for Emma Standon to identify her passion for designing swimwear and experimenting with bending the restricted rules of this fashion genre. Swimwear tends to be restricted in its ability to explore innovation in design, as functionality typically is the upmost priority.Fascinated by emerging technologies and the opportunities to explore innovative techniques in fashion design, Emma was especially interested by 3D printing. This was the spark which fuelled her interest in couture swimwear. This ideology, fused with underlining tones of sexual promiscuity and empowerment, became Handsy Swimwear.

Meet Emma Standon. Handsy Swimwear on Instagram.

RICHARD GIANG

Richard Giang is an Australian emerging fashion designer. Formerly an Architectural graduate at the University of Technology, Sydney (UTS), he decided to pursue his dream in the world of fashion. Richard’s designs are trans-seasonal, diverse, and wearable. Garments that evoke feelings of confidence, empowerment, sophistication and allure. His designs incorporate unique elements, techniques and textural fabrications that allow him to compromise and to create interesting aesthetic garments to suit all manner of occasions. Feminism and female empowerment are the foundations of his creativity, inspired by architecture, visual arts and Helmut Newton’s photography.

Meet Richard Giang. Richard Giang on Instagram.

JOHANNA SMITH

Johanna Smith was originally a teacher working in an isolated
Aboriginal community in far west NSW. Sheer isolation saw Johanna fall into a surreal entity of creative inspiration. The abstract arrangement of colour in outback Australia and the Aboriginal people became the embodiment, reference and muse of her label. The launch of YOHANA is infused with muddy hues and bold colour contrasts where obscure leather accents, cotton canvas and shirting are contrasted with lustrous texture.

Meet Johanna Smith. Yohana on Instagram.

Thank you to everyone who supports emerging Australian designers. They need your support, your interest, your passion, your encouragement, and your money. Please invest in their labels. Buy their product. Share the love by following their social media and …

LOVE Label Ministry on social, because the love starts here!

Until next time,

Jade xx

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Events, Fashion Designer

Raffles Graduate Runway 2016

December 12

Model on the runway wearing a white ruffled design by Ruth Read from Raffles College of Design Graduate Runway 2016.

Fashion is no longer just about ‘the garment’ …

Nick Comino

On Tuesday night Sydney’s Raffles College of Design took over Ambush Gallery in Chippendale for their graduate show 2016.

A huge open space, walls pulsating with tunes, matched with sheer adrenalin and anticipation running through the fashionista veins of this year’s graduating emerging fashion designers.

The charge in the air was tangible.

Each and every year, Australia welcomes a new group of emerging designers who hope to break into the Australian fashion industry. It is competitive, fiercely challenging and not for the feint hearted. The vast global arms of the international fashion industry at large and its devotees stand and wait with baited breath, beckoning those to live up to the industry standard. And in Australia, that bar is high. Very high. At least creatively.

Commercially our industry has suffered greatly through years of the ever changing climate of the digital age, struggling economic trends, and the inevitable rise of the “fast fashion” chains.

It has long been the case, for independent designers, that success is difficult to achieve and recognition difficult to attain. Support, government funding and financial backing are not as easy to come by as one might think.

I know it is the sentiment of myself and many others that the nurturing of our beloved industry back to its former glory days is a work in progress, for established designers and particularly for emerging talent.

I am pleased to report, I am really starting to see the tide turn.

Thankfully …

Enjoy xx

Backstage scene at the Raffles College of Design Graduate Runway 2016 at Ambush Gallery.

Backstage | Raffles Graduate Runway 2016 | Photography Jessica Fekonia

We habitually look at fashion as the spectacle and traditionally iconic.

Nick Comino

The space was filled with chatty, enthusiastic people who clearly loved anything creative.

This year, different to last, where the event was held at Carriageworks in a traditional runway setting.

2016 saw the graduate fashion designers share their space with other graduating Raffles students from Fashion Marketing, Photography, Interior Design, Graphic Design and Digital Media.

I had a long chat with Nick Comino, Raffles Program Director, who said, “this year we wanted to produce a show that encompassed everyone. We habitually look at fashion as the spectacle and traditionally iconic, so this year, we wanted to address things a little differently”.

He added, “even though a lot of the designers who have historically graduated from Raffles, may not have a label as such, the course offers them the opportunity to explore themselves and their own minds. Most find placement within the industry that we all love. Fashion is no longer just about the garment”.

I also spoke to Betsabeh Sohrabi-Sabi. The Assistant Program Director of Fashion and teacher of the course, Fashion Marketing. I asked her about how she felt about the contrast of her fashion marketing students showing alongside the runway of graduate emerging fashion designers; so different from the preceding year. She proudly showed me the work of her fashion marketing students; an essential wheel of course in the industry of fashion and the imperative and successful marketing of such.

Shortly after 7pm the lighting changed and the audible sighs of said fashionistas filled the room.

It was a full and excited house. The usual, wonderful suspects were there. Fedora hats, latest cuffed chinos and expensive brogues, not to mention the ever present designer handbag. Sky high heels, with and without platform, and carefully curated outfits. One doesn’t like to stare … but sometimes you just can’t help it! Surprisingly, many of the girls sported flats … an ever increasing trend I have noticed during recent months and events. A spill over from fashion week this year, with an obvious hint of permanence. Thank God! That’s a trend I’m all for!

Amazing tailoring, creative skill, and sheer mastery of sewing and construction went to Ruth Read who was selected to participate in an exchange program in Milan, an experience that fortified her attention to detail and craftsmanship, leading her to becoming a finalist for Emerging Designer of the Year in the 2015 Australian Wool Awards. Read currently has an internship with Vogue Australia, and will be travelling to Milan next year to gain further experience and refine her artistry. She said, “The making of fashion garments allows me to explore deep levels of personal expression. My designs and making processes allow me to develop fashion forms that communicate a ‘breaking through’ emotion. The final garment becomes a point of balance between internal and external. An equilibrium of dark and light”.

Ruth Read | Raffles College of Design Graduate Runway 2016 | Photography Romualdo Nubla Studio MOR+

Another standout in the designer line up for me was Alexandra Uyen Nguyen. A label for both men and women, I loved her use of black and white and the “Flintstone” feel of her geometric prints. The see-through top combined with cotton; very clever, and my other favourite, the oversized, off the shoulder top with big bold stripes. I thought the collection refreshing indeed. Her collection, ‘States of Mind’ was influenced by the work of ‘outsider’ artists like Yayoi Kusama. Through the use of repetitive prints and oversized silhouettes her work challenges the conventional social norms of fashion.

Model on the runway in a striped oversize top with white skirt with geometric pattern at the Raffles College of Design Graduate Runway 2016.

Designer | Alexandra | Raffles College of Design Graduate Runway 2016 | | Photography Romualdo Nubla Studio MOR+

In Hayley Kang’s collection, we saw the return of the classic sundress, a black and white maxi skirt teamed with an interestingly created crop top, and the use of blue and orange tones combined. Men’s suiting; a combination of pastels worked alongside plain grey, teamed with cropped drop crutch pants. I enjoyed the assymetrical skirts and her clever take on the geometrically patterned pea coat with “crayon effect”design. The use of fabric with self patterned spots, fringing and lattice work was inspiring. An altogether Alice McCall feel to me. Apparently, inspiration for the collection came from a traditional Korean folk tale about a masked dance, the purpose of which was to breathe courage into people, to break through the status quo and forego self-regulation.

Hayley Chang | Raffles College of Design Graduate Runway | Photography Romualdo Nubla Studio MOR+

Hayley Chang | Raffles College of Design Graduate Runway | Photography | Jessica Fekonia

Mary Quach … more black and white. In my opinion, always a winner on the runway and in life. I could see from very quick glimpses of her graduate collection that this young lady has the gift of design, sewing, and commercial ability. I loved the men’s cropped white trousers with a broad panel of fabric finishing off the hem. The gorgeous red coat with subtle stripe and hood, a traditional take on the duffle coat of old. Her women’s black pants shown with an interesting, wearable and textured top. Her collection to me had an almost industrial feel and laboratory driven design. I loved the details of lacing, the use of industrial climbing ropes, and gorgeous khaki sensibility. Her collection embodied fashion in an era of political subterfuge and dysfunction. A collection directly influenced by the Japanese film ‘Akira’ and its dystopian vision, coupled with the aesthetic influences of the constructivist design movement of the Russian revolution.

Alyce Chen’s beautiful cornflower blue leather dress was a standout also. A truly beautiful, wearable creation which I personally would like to see more of. Her collection explored female sensuality and sexuality as historically portrayed in romantic literature and painting.

Model on the runway wearing a cornflower blue leather dress by emerging designer Alyce Chen.

Alyce Chen | Raffles College of Design Graduate Runway 2016

Laura Davis’ work was a collection of immense quality. Clever layering, feminine skirts, and a beautiful green, long flowing coat closely related to the trench, but created outside of the box in super fun fabric. I loved her colour combinations, an art in itself. Her use of applique fabrics, unfinished hems, raw edges, and assymetrical skirts were interesting, versatile and wearable. “Frustrated by the perpetual revolving door of fashion, Laura took matters into her own hands, creating a label that represents a beautiful, minimalist life that prioritises style over quantity”.

Unfortunately, it is impossible to write about everyone in an article such as this, as time does not permit. Congratulations to all the emerging designers.

People are watching you. You are loved!

I should mention as a spokesperson for the Australian Fashion Industry … that our extremely talented established and emerging designers and their creative teams need your support.

What does that mean? It means we need you to spend your fashion dollar on Australian labels. Read our editorials. Buy tickets to events.

Follow LABEL MINISTRY on social media so our platform can become THE VOICE and THE PLATFORM. In this way, our work and our passion can ripple out to those whose full hearts are relying upon our work, far and wide across Australasia and the world.

Jade Cosgrove sitting in Ambush Gallery waiting for the Raffles College of Design graduate runway for emerging designers to start 2016.

LOVE US on Facebook & FOLLOW US on Instagram

Until next time,

Jade xx

Thanks To |

Special thanks should go to Romualdo Nubla, the photographer behind StudioMOR+. Romualdo is devoted to supporting, photographing, and representing Australian fashion, Australian emerging designers, and Australian Fashion Week and associated festivals across the fashion calendar year. Without these devoted professionals our industry would not exist. Please support so that our beloved fashion industry can flourish once again.

Studio MOR+ | StudioMOR+ |

StudioMOR+ Facebook | Romualdo Nubla | StudioMOR+ | Instagram

Raffles College of Design |

Raffles College of Design

Designers Featured |

Ruth Read Instagram

Laura Davis | Laura Davis Instagram

Mary Quach Instagram

Alexandra Uyen Nguyen Instagram

Hayley Kang Instagram

Australian Fashion Industry, Fashion Designer, Interview, Swimwear

LunarSand

November 23

Dark haired girl lying on the beach resting on her elbow looking at the camera wearing a red checked bikini with a picture of Felix the Cat on her left breast in a modelling shoot for a swimwear label.

Girl lying in a modelling shoot wearing a black and white one piece costume with her hands up holding her hair away from her face.

LunarSand is one of Australia’s rising swimwear labels.

Born in 2015 the label was birthed from the concept of strength and energy drawn from the moon and the earth representing wholeness and a sense of magic.

Founder Ruby Licciardi says her label, “embraces the wild, creative, energetic effect the full moon has on her devoted LunarSand tribe of empowered goddesses”.

It is synonymous with swimwear ‘funk’. It is the epitome of fun. Summer playfulness and heat related sillyness.

A lover of the one-piece, Ruby is equally comfortable creating the sexy bikini in all manner of colourful prints, coupled with lacing detail, and paying homage to the ever lovable “Felix The Cat”.

If you haven’t yet discovered LunarSand, you are just in time for summer!

Here is her story.

Enjoy xx

Model in a forest scene leaning backwards, outstretched in a white and emerald green bikini for a swimwear shoot.

Model | Creative Director | Eva Czarnocka

I love the night. It is quiet and mysterious. It feels like time stands still and you can just be amongst your thoughts.

Ruby Licciardi

I absolutely LOVE your label LunarSand. Where did the origins of the name come from?

Thank you so much! It’s always so nice to get positive feedback; it re-inspires and gives you that little boost you need. I played with names for months. I wanted something strong, which holds meaning and eludes to the origin of the product. I was helped along with glass or two of wine!

I love the effect of the full moon, people seem to be a little more wild, creative and energetic. I also feel a personal connection to the Lunar as many significant moments in our lives seem to be highlighted by a full moon. I met Asher (my husband) on a full moon, Atticus (our first son) was born on a full moon and funnily enough the very first LunarSand Look Book was shot on the week the stars and the moon were aligned.

I believe you have a textiles background. Tell me more.

Yes I do. I have always loved to create, draw, paint – I love working with my hands. I didn’t quite know which discipline I wanted to go into so studied a Bachelor of Design at COFA- the College of Fine Art. It was during my early study that I fell in love with textiles. I adore the tactile nature of textiles; I love that you can touch, feel and see the beauty of fabric. I majored in Textiles and Jewellery. I then went on to tutor third year at COFA and worked as a freelance textiles designer specialising in digital print. After the birth of my first son I moved into children’s wear and started the label Max Licciardi for ‘cheeky cherubs’. This was a lot of fun but wasn’t where my passion lies. I have also worked as a stylist for children’s wear and swimwear. Whilst I was freelancing, I always enjoyed designing prints for swimwear. My favourite process is engineering a design to sculpt perfectly around the contour of the female body. I like experimenting with symmetry and asymmetry to create balance in a piece. Designing prints and swimwear patterns is almost like creating a beautiful visual rhythm.

Two girls laughing and talking during a modelling shoot on the beach. One is the model and the other is a stylist.

What inspires you first. The fabric, the design, or a concept?

I think these three elements inspire me equally but not always in the same order. My process changes with each collection and each individual style. All three elements come together to dictate the overall finish of a style. My earlier collections were perhaps more inspired by print design and driven by concept, but I have recently fallen back in love with fabric, texture and accessories. I am currently working on a collection that pushes the boundaries a little more in terms of fabric choice for swimwear, which is both exciting and challenging.

As a swimwear designer, what do you believe is the greatest challenge?

An interesting question! For me the greatest challenge is using restraint and limiting my collections to a smaller number of styles. I feel that swimwear is very personal; each woman has her own preferred fit and style. I would like to be able to create something for everyone and would keep on designing and adding if I could, but budget and time restrictions make this impossible so I must stick to a deadline and target.

What do you find is the most comfortable style for women, or does this vary?

I have found that there is not one ‘particular’ comfortable style for women. It differs hugely; it is such a personal preference. What one woman feels amazing in another wouldn’t consider wearing and visa versa. I also think that the print and colourway of a style plays a big role in making a woman feel comfortable and fabulous in a particular design. All female figures are gorgeous and a woman that feels confident from within shines. I believe we need to stop worrying about what everyone around us thinks and dress the way we like to dress; you only live in this body once, so wear what makes you smile!

Swimwear model lying on the beach facing the photographer with blue sky and blue ocean behind her wearing a blue and red and white bikini. Her hair is wet and she is smiling.

I am also a lover of the one-piece! It is comfortable, classy, and stays in place! What do you see as the benefits?

YES – I am also completely in love with the one-piece and for all the same reasons! A well designed one-piece compliments the female frame beautifully, and you know I also feel that it can be incredibly sexy, in an understated, sophisticated way. A statement one-piece is also extremely versatile. You can team it with a pair of cut ofdenim shorts and kicks for a cute, grungy day of fun in the sun or a gorgeous pair of skinnies and heels for a night on the town.

Are all of your swimsuits lined? How important do you believe this is in the comfort and longevity of the item?

YES! All of our swimsuits are lined with beautiful milky silk lining. It is so important for comfort and longevity. Lining must be just as luxurious and soft as the outer shell fabric as this is what sits against the skin. It also gives a swimsuit that extra substance and prevents a see-through cossie – I think we have all experienced the dreaded moment on a crowded beach when you realize that your unlined swimsuit is see-through! Mine happened in the Christmas holidays at Avoca beach when I was thirteen! I still remember that lime green sparkly bikini, and its one and only outing – ha ha ha!

How do you arrive at conceptual ideas for a swimwear range?

I love to take inspiration from all sorts of sources: visual stimulation, feelings and moods, as well as philosophies, concepts and historical context. I often arrive at ideas after sessions of deep thought or sometimes a moment or a dream will spark something in my imagination. I then research this topic and develop it into a story. I also like to work backwards sometimes. When my mind is too busy and needs quietening, sometimes I like to just start drawing and let the motifs, shapes and colours take their own direction and then apply a concept once the design has come together. When I was freelancing, I would generate these ideas quite quickly as you have deadlines and sometimes client briefs. The process can take you a little longer when you are working on your own collection, as there is always that critical inner voice that makes you re-evaluate along the way. I ultimately like each style to tell its own story, but also sit within a conceptual and/or visual collection.

How important is exposure on the runway for a swimwear designer?

Exposure on the runway is extremely important for a swimwear designer. People need to see how swimwear fits the body when in motion. Swimwear is also sexy, exciting, exotic and reminds us of time spent playing and relaxing. The runway creates a feeling of excitement; it is a spectacle and stimulates the senses – this is how swimwear should be seen!

Model standing on the sand with the waves behind her for a swimwear shoot. Her hands are above her head and she is modelling a white bikini top with coloured bikini bottoms.

Model | Creative Director | Eva Czarnocka

Have you accessed the overseas market yet?

Yes. The LunarSand ‘Felix the Cat’ range was launched on the September 1 and is available internationally in the USA, Korea, Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore. I would love to start exploring the possibilities of introducing the LunarSand label as a whole to an international market.

I absolutely LOVE your “Felix The Cat” range! Can we expect more gorgeous capsule collections from you?

Thank you so much! The “Felix the Cat” range was an absolute treat to work on. I grew up loving Felix – such a groovy, iconic character. I was thrilled to be invited by DreamWorks to design this collection. Capsule collections and collaborations are my passion! This is what gets me excited – creative freedom, experimentation and a great team of people who inspire and support each other. I would ultimately love to create at least one capsule collection along with the core LunarSand styles each season.

I noticed that you also create towels and sarongs in the same fabrics as your swimwear. Do you always create an entire story?

I don’t always create an entire look – but this is something that I would like to move towards. I love seeing a complete look and story brought to life! I have also found that clients love having the option of working in extra accessories that compliment their chosen swimsuit. I am in the process of designing a fabulous wide leg pant for next season’s collection.

Girl sitting cross legged in a modelling shoot wearing a black and white high waisted bikini with her arms up above her head. She is looking directly at the camera.

How difficult do you believe it is to be successful in the Australian fashion industry?

Interesting question! I believe that you have to work really hard to be successful in the Australian Fashion Industry. You have to take rejections on the chin, but also be willing to seek and take advice. Fashion is subjective; what one person loves another dislikes, but I also think that it’s important to have the backing of the industry and really encourage each other to create great things.

Amen!

If you could change anything about our current industry what would it be?

I think that the current Australian fashion industry is in a state of change – the world as a whole is in a state of flux. I believe we may be about to witness some big changes. It would be great for Australian designers to have the tools and means to secure more of the international market. And I am excited to see new innovation and a revitalized industry that gets behind its emerging designers and showcase them to the world.

Have you felt supported by this industry, or to date, alone in your quest?

LunarSand is still a relatively young label and these early years are the toughest to slog through. I have met some amazing people in this last year who have given me incredible opportunities and the support I need to keep going and creating. I think I still have a hard road ahead of me but am full of passion and drive. In order to grow and evolve as a label and designer you do need industry support and guidance and I would love to see more.

Is consistent editorial coverage an important part of your development as a designer?

Yes I do think that consistent and reliable editorial coverage is invaluable as part of a designer’s development. It allows you to build your label and present it to your clients, helping them to become familiar with the labels direction, aesthetic and vision.

Girl standing in a modelling shoot wearing a black and white one piece costume with her hands up holding her hair away from her face.

How has your textile background helped you with LunarSand?

It has helped enormously. A background in textiles has meant that I have been able to develop the skills to create both the print and pattern for each style in all the LunarSand collections. The dual experience of studying and working within the textiles and design industry has helped prepare me for this adventure. I have made many mistakes along the way but this allows me to adapt and correct quickly.

Where can one buy your collections?

Our whole collection is available online at LunarSand.

We are also stocked at SMFA Gallery | Knox St, Double Bay, Sydney and The Design Residency | Oxford St, Darlinghurst, Sydney.

The LunarSand ‘Felix the Cat’ collection is also available through The First Thread.

The world needs more of LunarSand! Can we hope to see you at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week next year?

Thank you! Yes, I would absolutely love to show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia. I am working on next years collection as we speak! We have something very special up our sleeves and MBFWA would be the perfect place to reveal our secret! A collaboration would be incredible; I think 2017 is our year!

Totally!

When you are shooting a new collection, what do you look for in terms of location?

Researching and choosing a location for a shoot is one of my favorite parts of the process. I look for a number of things. Firstly the location must compliment and elevate the creative vision and feel of the collection. I look at the variety and angles that can be achieved – a really varied landscape that can be accessed and utilised without having to travel from one place to the other. I like to look at the big picture and think about capturing shots that take advantage of the stunning natural landscape and textures to create drama – cliffs, rock faces, breaking waves. I would love to push the boundaries further with future collections and start looking at interesting and quirky locations that tell fascinating stories. I have always loved the work of Patrick Russell and the scenes that he created in the 1970’s. He captured down to earth Australian women in casual locations, but added such an element of glamour. This juxtaposition of glamour and the casual Australian spirit creates excitement, intrigue and attitude.

What Australian fashion designers and swimwear designers do you most admire? And, overseas?

I admire so many! I would have to say Romance Was Born – I love what they do, such creativity and vision. Camilla, has such a stunning aesthetic. We Are Handsome. They have such a powerful and unique style and Valentino is to die for!

What is your greatest dream?

Oh my greatest dream – that is a hard one. I have lots of little dreams, which seem to be ever changing and evolving. But I guess my greatest dream is to be in a position where I can continue to create on a larger scale. I would also like to align this creative vision with making a small difference for better in the world. Travelling the world, meeting and working with inspiring people, growing as a designer and breathing in all that the universe has to offer.

Model lying on a towel smiling up at the photographer for a swimwear shoot. She is wearing a blue floral bikini with matching towel.

As a mother, and a wife, how difficult has it been to maintain the success of your label?

It can be challenging at times to say the least; we definitely need more hours in the day but like everyone, we have had to find a groove that works for us. My children are still quite young; Atticus is six and Phoenix has just turned four months so I am working interesting hours. I have always been a night owl, however the last couple of months have given this a whole new meaning. I am lucky in that I have a very supportive husband and family. It’s good fun, our kids are a big part of what I do; our house is a circus: kids toys, half finished artwork, swimwear, plants and mannequins everywhere – organised chaos!

Where would you like to see yourself in five years from now?

LunarSand … well established and loved in the Australian market place and making a big splash on the international scene. I would like to think that we will be working with an exceptional team of dynamic people. I would love to branch out into mens and childrens swimwear and work on pushing creative boundaries.

Do you believe in the power of fashion collaborations?

Absolutely! Artistic magic is achieved when a group of people come together and pool their individual strengths to work towards a common vision. It also gives you the chance to work on interesting projects that may be a little left of field. I’ll never forget Vogue, March 2014. This particular shoot featured Mia Wasikowska and was a collaboration between Jillian Davison, Australian artist Del Kathryn Barton, Emma Summerton and Alice Babidge; the outcome was spectacular, the images have a beautiful ethereal mood with a bold and dramatic undertone! It would be a dream to be involved in something like this.

Model standing in front of an ocean pool wearing a one piece blue swimsuit with Felix the Cat on the front. The swimsuit has lacing detail at the front.

When do you see yourself breaking into the international swimwear market?

As mentioned above, the LunarSand ‘Felix the Cat’ range was launched on the first of September and is available internationally in the USA, Korea, Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore, which is fantastic, really exciting and a wonderful opportunity. I would love to start exploring the possibilities of introducing the LunarSand label as a whole to an international market in the next one or two years.

Summer is upon us! What style do you believe is trending this year?

Yes!!! It is finally here, those warm evenings and days full of sunshine do wonders for the soul. There are clear trends each year, but what I love about swimwear is that each designer/label stamps their own signature twist on a trend. I definitely like to be aware of trend and predictions, but I make an effort to ensure that they don’t confine me as this can take over your creative process. However I do believe that side cut-outs are absolutely trending. Thin, strappy ties/details are a favorite this year and the high cut bottom with cheekier coverage will be big.

Until next time,

Jade xx

Featured Image

Shop LunarSand for Summer 2016!

Contact LunaSand

Say Hello to Ruby!

Follow LunarSand

LunarSand Instagram | LunarSand Facebook |

Support Ruby’s Charity

Purchase the LunarSand ‘Sporty Swag” drawstring bag perfect for the beach or the gym. 100% of the proceeds go to BeyondBlue.

Shop Sporty Swag

Until next time,

Jade xx

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Photography, Styling

Karlstrom Creatives

November 8

Picture of a girl in black and white with large round sunglasses and long brown hair.

Karlstrom Creatives | Photography | Peter Karlstrom | Stylist | Leigh Karlstrom

The passion and love comes from creating something that is yours. We see what we do as a story and the characters just come to life.

Petter Karlstrom

One of my most favourite topics within the realm of Australian fashion is the creative team. We often take for granted the contribution that these teams make to the success of independent designers, important events, and the general gorgeous hype that our industry rocks. No other creative team is more deserving of this kudos which is the topic of my latest editorial.

Who are they? Karlstrom Creatives.

I absolutely love the work of Petter and Leigh Karlstrom.

They have reached, what I consider to be, the pinnacle of creative prowess.

Petter and Leigh Karlstrom are the dynamic duo. Quite literally. Petter is the photographer, Leigh the stylist.

I first discovered their work when I interviewed the amazing Chisato Chris Arai, another creative genius. Definitely one of Australia’s most coveted makeup artists. If you have not discovered Chris Arai yet, do yourself the pleasure of checking out her work. Just navigate through the menu to her article. Truly inspiring.

But back to the Karlstrom duo. Their work is fresh, inspiring, different, engaging, and pure creativity. It is the epitome of imagination and fantasy, and I love it!

I can’t sing the praises of these people enough. I know, I know. You think I say that about everyone I interview. Well I do try to sing everybody’s praises. That’s true. But it is never undeserved, as I am blessed to be granted interviews with the very coolest of people!

Every now and again, you come across people and talent that is truly special. And this article is about these human gemstones.

Petter told me, “the streets inspire us. Characters and spaces. I usually get an idea from being at a cool location and then the rest just comes naturally”.

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Fashion Designer, Global Fashion Industry, Interview

Frederick Jenkyn

September 26

As all of my devoted followers already know, earlier this year, I had the pleasure of perusing on mass, the breathtaking young smorgasbord of talent that Australia serves up each and every year at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. After the week long event, which is the highlight of the years for all Australian fashion devotees, I methodically work my way through the incredible mix of entrepreneurial youth, offering them the opportunity to publish an affordable and effective public relations interview to promote their names and their emerging brands.

Frederick Jenkyns collection was outstanding. I met him the very day of the unveiling of his collection, but am bringing you this interview after corresponding with him in London, his new place of residence.

As I am sure you are aware, and if you are not, please consider this.

Our emerging designers are quite literally our fashion future. They represent the group of people who will lead us strongly, both locally and internationally, in the ethical and sustainable production of our beloved fashion industry. Young people such as Frederick will most likely be the names behind your choice of dressing and the other interiors of our design lives for decades to come. It is essential that we support them, read about them, buy their product and offer them our gratitude and encouragement.

Please remember to share the love.

Australian fashion is depending on you …

Meet Frederick Jenkyn.

In five years? I want to have my own studio with pattern makers/design assistants. A machinist and a social media/online manager.

Rolls and rolls of fabrics and a stock room filled to the brim.

I would like to think I’ll be complaining about needing more space. But then I will think, I need to pay for the embroidery for next season so it’s not a good time to upgrade.

I will only wear black. In case someone visits the studio and I won’t look a mess.

And in the bottom draw of my desk, that looks like a filing draw, I’ll keep some throw rugs for the “before show” all-nighters.

Frederick Jenkyn

Here is Frederick Jenkyn’s story so far …

Frederick Jenkyn as a brand emphasises wearable innovation through unconventional textiles and hand crafted detailing traversing the borderline between couture extravagance and everyday wearability.

Frederick Jenkyn

Editorial, Fashion Designer, Global Fashion Industry, Interview

Charlotte Elizabeth

August 29

Meet Charlotte Elizabeth. The young British designer of the very simplistic, but very beautiful handbag.

The Bloomsbury Handbag.

The owner of some very real creativity, sass, and commitment. Not to mention, courage.

Some months ago, I was aimlessly browsing through Instagram.

It should be noted here, that I am not of Instagram age or stage.

To be perfectly honest, by anyones current modern day social media standard, I have a very unimpressive Instagram following. Probably even more unusual is the fact that I don’t care. And the reason is simply this.

My Label Ministry work: that of bringing the work of emerging fashion designers, mainly Australian, and sometimes international, is something I regard as phenomenally important. My Instagram account … well let’s just say, is lagging. The promotion of Australian designers and drawing the attention of the pubic to them is my main focus, because it is here that success will prevail for all those working in our beloved Australian fashion industry. One of the things I love about Instagram is what I find on the platform as opposed to what narcissistic benefits it can provide me with.

One such recent find so happens to be the subject of my latest article, a young English woman by the name of Charlotte Elizabeth. Her story is an amazing one, and one which simply needs to be told. Through a chronic illness and many years of ill health and self reflection, Charlottes’ story is not only one of triumph, but one of dedication, creativity, commitment and enterprise.

Jade xx

Launching a handbag line at the age of 21 is a feat in itself, but when you can’t draw or sew and have been paralysed for over year, it would seem to be an impossible task. Yet that is what Charlotte Elizabeth Jones has done, building her accessories business from her bed …

Emma Spedding, The Telegraph.

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