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The Fashion Advocate

February 28
Girl sitting on a chair slouched back in a modelling shoot with black top, black leather pants and high black stilettos.

 

Tatyana Designs

Tatyana Designs

Runways are crucial to the development of fashion. They illustrate a moment in time, a shift in trends, a certain look, they reflect the current culture and they represent who we are. It’s not just a string of clothes on a catwalk – it’s a story. Runways are stories, and they’re special.

Claire Goldsworthy, The Fashion Advocate.

It’s that time of year again. VAMFF is here. The Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival  is fast approaching and the city of Melbourne and fashion devotees from far and wide make their way to the eighteen day long festival. As tribute to this years festival the star of this article is Claire Goldsworthy. A girl after my own heart.

She is the passionate fashionista and founder of the print and digital magazine, The Fashion Advocate and the creator of the collaborative brainchild, The Dress Collective. A collective of emerging Australian designers who manufacture their product in Australia.

This year Claire is at the helm. The Fashion Advocate Runway is a hand-picked collection of emerging Australian designers from around the country. As a vocal and passionate advocate of Australian fashion myself, this runway is one not to be missed by virtue of the fact that its focal point is Australian designers who manufacture in Australia.

Contrary to popular belief there are many emerging and established designers who still manufacture in Australia. In my opinion we should all be following them with great interest, applauding their ethics and moral values, and then setting aside our fashion budget to committing to buying their product, thus supporting their work, and most importantly keeping them in business.

Claire Goldsworthy describes “fast fashion” as “The dirty F-word”! I couldn’t agree more!

Why do we buy fast, dirty, cheap, badly made, unethically produced, highly pollutive fast fashion? Designs that are all too often ripped off from the world’s top designers?? If you have the answer, please let me know, because I am totally miffed as to why these fast fashion giants have such an enormous share of our fashion market. I have written many an article about supporting local Australian fashion and all of you who follow me (God love you all!), well know my opinion on this important subject. Some of you may have already read my article on the Zara Phenomenon

Have we become such lazy and disinterested sheep that we are incapable of thinking for ourselves? Are we so disinterested in our own local fashion market, and our own economy that we have just given up fighting for what is right? Please. Pretty Please. Buy Australian Made Fashion. Support Australian Designers. Vote with your fashion dollar to create much needed change.

Girl sitting on a chair slouched back in a modelling shoot with black top, black leather pants and high black stilettos.

Mhoo Mhoo

Anyhow, back to The Fashion Advocate.

Isn’t it just soooo refreshing to find someone who champions the importance of showcasing, supporting, and bringing to the spotlight, Australian designers, who produce sustainable, ethical product and manufacture in Australia.

Meet Claire Goldsworthy. She is. The Fashion Advocate.

Melbourne Entrepreneur. Fashionista. Editor. Founder of The Dress Collective. Runway Curator. Lover of Australian fashion. Gem.

If you would like to attend the The Fashion Advocate Runway on March 11 get in quick because tix are selling fast!

Here is her story.

Until next time,

Jade xx

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VAMFF … Book your tix! March 01 – March 19 2017

 

Fast fashion has no meaning, no purpose, and no value …

Claire Goldsworthy, The Fashion Advocate.

LM

What is the work of The Fashion Advocate?

TFA

The Fashion Advocate is a print and digital magazine dedicated to Australian made fashion, beauty and lifestyle brands, with a focus on ethical and sustainable content.

LM

What has been the major inspiration for your work?

TFA

I wanted to see change. It drives me mad to see the plethora of fast fashion in shopping centres selling for five dollars a piece. How on earth can a garment be made, transported and retailed for five dollars?

It can’t – unless it’s been created under unsustainable and unethical standards. I was sick of seeing fast fashion crap. Sick of the facts and figures that get released every year about the negative environmental impacts of the fashion industry, and sick and tired of seeing the same style top in ten different stores.

It’s robotic.

Fast fashion has no meaning, no purpose, no value.

The inspiration for The Fashion Advocate was my desire for change; I wanted to promote fashion that matters. I wanted to inspire other people to start thinking about the impact of their shopping habits. I launched The Fashion Advocate to support Australian brands who have morals, values and ethics. To introduce consumers to a range of options that they might not otherwise have known about.

Pale girl with red hair and red lipstick standing in front of a beige wall and flowers being photographed in a modelling shoot in a pale pink satin dress. Designer Teagan Jacobs.

‘Blushed’ By Teagan Jacobs

LM

You are a fashion designer yourself. How does that assist you in understanding the difficulties other designers face?

TFA

I launched my own fashion label straight out of high school and worked everything out the hard way from the bottom up. I have a first-hand understanding of the blood, sweat and tears that go into a locally made fashion label because I’ve been there and done that. I’ve since put that label to rest as my aesthetic has changed, but having the first hand experience exposed me to the ups and downs of fashion.

I understand what brands go through. It helps me connect with designers and it’s not a foreign topic; fashion is simultaneously heart-breakingly hard. It conjures up so many different emotions. My experience helps me write about fashion, beauty and lifestyle brands in a personal way because I get it.

Line up of models waiting to walk the runway at a fashion event. Designs by Habadakas.

HABADAKAS

LM

How much has your own label, Harriette Hill, influenced your own work?

TFA

Although I don’t run the brand anymore, it all started with Harriette Hill… My love of vintage fabrics, traditional sewing techniques and my ethical values all stem from my first brand. When I inherited my great grandmother’s 1950’s and 1960’s fabric collection, I was forced to find ways to make it last and so my journey into sustainability began.

LM

How important do you believe is the unveiling of collections on the runway?

TFA

Runways are crucial to the development of fashion.

They illustrate a moment in time, a shift in trends, a certain look.

They reflect the current culture and represent who we are. It’s not just a string of clothes on a catwalk – it’s a story.

Runways are stories, and they’re special.

Model standing in front of a pale blue wall in an emerald green slinky dress by Dida.

Dida

LM

Yes. Yes. Yes!

LM

How was The Dress Collective birthed?

TFA

Much the same as The Fashion Advocate – I wanted to see change. I had always been interested in fashion and over the years, I worked nationally and internationally in retail, brand management, PR and marketing, runway management, creative direction for various brands large and small, and always in fashion.

I was never truly content with working for other brands as their values and ethics didn’t quite align with mine. I launched The Dress Collective in 2015 to make a positive change for the fashion industry. I just couldn’t sit back and watch the damage anymore.

LM

Please describe the role of The Dress Collective?

TFA

The Dress Collective is an online store that sells only 100 per cent Australian made fashion. It’s also 100 per cent transparent and each designers story is attached to every single item we sell, along with the garment’s design and manufacturing origins. The Dress Collective is more than just an online shop for Australian designers though; it’s a support network and creative foundation, built on a vision of positive and sustainable growth for the future of the Australian fashion industry. It doesn’t focus solely on ‘trends’ or seasonal collections, because that can sometimes create the ideal of ‘past season’ or ‘out of fashion’. Instead, The Dress Collective helps consumers make long term decisions about their wardrobe by introducing them to high quality, trans-seasonal and unique labels.

LM

How difficult is it for Australian labels to produce their collections in Australia?

TFA

Contrary to popular belief, quite easy.

The cost is sometimes higher, but we do have a host of high quality manufacturers in Australia. The question though is about values and profit.

Is it difficult to manufacture in Australia? No.

Is it difficult to compete with fast fashion when you manufacture in Australia? Yes.

Local manufacturing can be costly, which drives up the cost of the final garment, but the value is in the ethical benefits of local manufacturing, so it depends on what you value and which part of the production cycle you consider to be more important.

Model standing in an urban street scene wearing a cropped black t with netting and loose black and white pants.

Cameron & James

LM

What do you believe is the greatest challenge facing Australian designers in our current market?

TFA

Fast fashion. The dirty F-word!

People are hungry for unique clothing; the challenge isn’t demand as there’s plenty of that.

It’s the cheap fast fashion that causes a problem, and it starts to desensitise people to the bigger problem. You don’t think much about a twenty dollar top because you’d pay the same for pizza, therefore you’re more likely to throw it away, not care for it, and replace it with another twenty dollar top.

It’s a vicious cycle and it’s a hard one to break. The constant struggle is educating people about the importance of supporting local brands and the play-off between fast and slow fashion is an enormous challenge.

LM

What is your opinion of fast fashion? What do you believe is its future?

TFA

Fast fashion has ruined our industry, globally.

It’s raping and pillaging the earth, killing garment workers and devaluing something that deserves so much more credit and thought. I do believe that people are slowly waking up to the impact of fast fashion and slowly making better choices, but it’s going to take a long time to see a total shift.

I won’t stop fighting for slow fashion though, no matter long it takes.

Model lying on steps with tussled blonde hair and sunglasses for a swimwear shoot wearing a black bikini and draped cardigan.

Sets of Seven

LM

What do you most love about Australian fashion?

TFA

The diversity of it. I know labels that make entire garments out of pompoms, and some that make entire garments out of repurposed jeans. There are so many unique and diverse labels locally. I love it! Australian designers tend to be very self-driven and not focus on global trends too much because of the differences in season and locality compared with the rest of the world.

LM

What are your favourite Australian labels?

TFA

All of the labels I stock online at The Dress Collective!

I hand pick them and they’re all so unique, yet very wearable and practical. Black Mob is incredible – it’s unisex and very vocal about the issues it stands for, I love it. DEVOI is another of my favourites; I absolutely love bright colour and prints, and this label delivers both.

Model in a studio with hair bunched up in pigtails wearing a see-through cropped net top with scalloped pink collar with large peddle-pusher wide pink pants with white sneakers and bright pink laces.

Rayan Ardati

LM

Please share your views on the importance of ethical and sustainable fashion production?

TFA

It’s not even a question for me – you either engage ethical and sustainable practices, or you shouldn’t be running a business. If you are going to offer a product to the world, it is your responsibility to do so in an ethical manner; the harm of people or the environment shouldn’t be something that is gambled in the process. It is so very simple to ensure ethical and sustainable production and something you choose. Every step of the process is a choice for brands. We live in an incredible country and we are so very fortunate; we take it for granted. No-one in Australia would accept the garment factory working conditions or pay that are ‘the norm’ in third world countries. No-one would show up to work in Australia for those conditions. If you wouldn’t accept it for yourself, you shouldn’t accept it for any other person involved in the cycle of your business.

LM

How does VAMFF differ to the other events across the Australian fashion calendar?

TFA

I love VAMFF!

It is such an inclusive, diverse festival that appeals to so many different people from all walks of life. The main fashion week is of course very targeted to your fashion-nuts, but the wider calendar includes beauty events, styling workshops, business seminars, shopping activations, film, photography … there’s something for everyone and I’m all about inclusion and diversity.

LM

I believe you are curating your own show this year at VAMFF – The Fashion Advocate Runway. Please tell us more …

TFA

I am SO excited to be curating this event! I’ve handpicked twelve labels from around the country to showcase the diversity and talent of the Australian fashion industry, and all labels are entirely Australian made.

There tends to be a stigma around Australian made fashion and I’m working endlessly to ensure that the wider public understands the industry. People don’t realise that everything you need in your wardrobe – whether it be corporate attire, lingerie, formal wear, swimwear, sleepwear, whatever – can be bought from designers who manufacture locally. The details have been meticulously planned, from the local cocktails on offer to the gifts in the VIP bags – it’s all about Australian made. I’ve partnered with Luna Park too; I’m honoured to be hosting an event at such an iconic and historic venue, it all ties in with the message of valuing local, our roots and delving deeper into everything we buy, wear and engage with.

It’s going to be a very special event!

LM

And indeed it will be! The designers are …

HabadakasTatyana DesignVincent LiDiidap’junk by Kate HannahOroceo CastroLorenza The LabelRayan ArdatiCameron & JamesMhoo MhooBlushed by Teagan Jacobs, and Fool.

Two girls holding hands on a lush green lawn wearing pretty dresses.

Lorenza The Label

LM

If you could speak openly, what would you say to Australian consumers?

TFA

Buy less, choose well, shop local. Start thinking about the impact of your choices and start creating the kind of world that you want for future generations; the world’s resources are not infinite. Support your local designers and design your own image around the message you want to promote; use fashion as a method of positive impact and change.

LM

How can we best support emerging designers in Australia?

TFA

By shopping online at The Dress Collective!

Shameless plug!

LM

Love a shameless plug!

Come on peeps … Shop. Shop. Shop!

Asian model half lying down looking backwards and to the side wearing designs by Vincent Li.

Vincent Li

The Fashion Advocate Runway Designer Line-Up

Follow them on Instagram and show your support!

Habadakas Instagram, Tatyana Design Instagram, Vincent Li Instagram, Diida Instagram, p’junk by Kate Hannah, Oreceo Castro, Lorenza The Label, Rayan Ardati, Cameron & James, Mhoo Mhoo, ‘Blushed’ by Teagan Jacobs, and Fool.

SHOP The Dress Collective!

Annabelle and EveAwaken The HausAzulant AkoraBlack Mob The LabelCameron & JamesDevoiDon’t Do PrettyEspire ClothingHarriette HillJudeLetitia GreenMarcela’s AccessoriesMici JayOroceo CastroRbcca KstrSets of SevenTatyana DesignThe Spotted Quoll StudioVincent LiVousWhy Mary

Model sitting in a photographic studio with dark hair, black and white top and bright red skirt. Designer, Oroceo Castro.

Orocéo Castro

Remember …

“Buy less, choose well, shop local. Start thinking about the impact of your choices and start creating the kind of world that you want for future generations; the world’s resources are not infinite. Support your local designers and design your own image around the message you want to promote; use fashion as a method of positive impact and change”.

Claire Goldsworthy, The Fashion Advocate.

 

Picture of Luna Park in Melbourne, Victoria. One of the runway venues for this years Virgin Australia's Melbourne Fashion Festival.

The Fashion Advocate Runway Venue

See you at VAMFF 2017! …

Until next time,

Jade xx

Coat Hanger Logo done in black on white in the style of chinese calligraphy and paint brushing style with the words Label Ministry placed in capital letters below it.

 

 

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Melbourne Fashion Festival, VAMFF

VAMFF Melbourne 2016

March 16
Models promoting the Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival 2016.

Well. Here I am in Melbourne. March 2016. VAMFF. Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival. It’s been a hell of a week for a few different reasons. Travelling interstate for a week of fashion frenzy is, for any seasoned fashionista, and I guess I could call myself that, a hard slog. The “four seasons in one day” Melbourne weather took us from an unprecedented heat wave at the beginning of the week to full on rain a few days later. A pleasant but unexpected development. But! I have to say … well done Melbourne! What a great week. I moved gallantly through the week, albeit with moments of exhaustion, with equal doses of sheer determination and pure adrenalin. I have attended eight events, with some more to come, the last of which was Discovery Runway. I love the established designers, and I truly feel that nobody could love designer clothing and our amazing home grown designers more than I do. (I mean, really, who writes about this subject more than I do!) However, anyone that knows me well will know that the support and nurturing of emerging designers and their creative teams is where my true passion lies.

Anyway, back to VAMFF. Tonights Discovery Runway was a selection of eight Melbourne emerging designers who were invited to showcase their collections in the foyer of the Melbourne Museum, the new home of VAMFF. Four of tonight’s emerging designers have recently been showcased by Label Ministry as a vehicle of support and an offering of virtual love!

ASSK, Article. by Courtney Holm, Amxander & Lois Hazel stood out for me tonight, of course, as I have been pouring over their interviews and collections for weeks now.  Not only that, I have developed a rapport with these designers and have read with interest and affection their perspective on the world we live in, and their representation of it through the creation of their fashion labels. It is always an honour for me to interview these designers, as for the most part, they are grateful, respectful, and genuinely humble in their quest for support. They speak with honesty and transparency about the struggles of being an emerging fashion designer, where larger egos, and unsympathetic ears are often the mainstay of their business interactions. They share their hopes and dreams, the stories of their educational journeys, and how they aspire to design in the same vein and success as their industry icons.

I hope my voice, both in the literal sense of the word and in the form of my editorials brings them the kind of support which is so desperately needed for their guaranteed success. It is extremely heartening to me to hear of their gratitude, and be on the receiving end of their heartfelt thanks.

The love of their trade, their genuine concern for the future of our planet, and their continued efforts to shape a world in which we can all co-exist touches something deep inside me. Draping ourselves in beautiful fabrics, and accessorising ourselves in ethical and sustainable product because of the efforts these young people is something I feel immensely proud to be part of.

I hope that my work becomes their very own public relations voice.

One that is loud. One that is heard. One that makes the difference.

To everyone who participated in the Discovery Runway tonight.

All Hail …

I had the pleasure of interviewing some of them …

ASSK

 

Autumn/Winter 2015 Campaign. Asian girl sitting in an ASSK sweater with black and white textured wall behind.

Photographer | Elliott Lauren | MUA/Hair | Holly Rose Butler | Models | Chadwicks

 

ASSK is an anagram of the designers initials. Sarah Schofield and Agatha Kowalewski. The girls have been living in Paris working in the fashion industry for a few years. Sarah was working at Louis Vuitton, and Agatha was working as a stylist when they started ASSK in 2013. Their business and studio are based there and they have press offices in Paris and in NY.

Both girls are originally from Australia, and Melbourne especially has remained really important to ASSK.

They sell through Distal Phalanx in Melbourne, and have a really strong base there.

Their label has been heavily influenced by technology and internet culture.

The internet has always played a big part in the ASSK brand. Agatha and Sarah first connected on the internet and worked with Melbourne artist Oliver van der Lugt over the internet for two years before they met.

Their first four collections were sold via the internet over look books to people they didn’t know. In places they had never visited.

This interconnectivity through technology has been very important to them.

Label Ministry recently interviewed ASSK.

 

LOIS HAZEL

 

Model | Sarah Baxter | Photographer | Kim Mennen | HMUA | Emma Gillett

Model | Sarah Baxter | Photographer | Kim Mennen | HMUA | Emma Gillett

 

Lois Hazel graduated from RMIT’s Bachelor of Design in Fashion with first class honours in 2012. She then left Australia to work for the New York design house, Marchesa, and Iris van Herpen in Amsterdam. Lois returned to Australia, and her home town Melbourne in 2014. She launched her first capsule accessories range, and then her debut collection “Frayed” in 2015. She is passionate about ethical and sustainable practices, and hopes to bring positive change to the fashion industry by donating five percent of her profits to One Girl Australia.

She loves the fashion industry, but unfortunately feels that it does have its ‘fake’ moments. She says “only a small percentage of those involved really get the credit they deserve. I really want to make sure that in my practice people get the credit they deserve. I want to show my consumers not only where everything is made, but also that they can see it is a team effort”.

Label Ministry recently interviewed Lois Hazel.

 

AMXANDER

 

Model standing in front of a red wall dressed completely in black but wearing a donkey brown jacket with hoodie.

Amxander. Spring/Summer 2015

 

I have always been a fan of designers who tackle the menswear side of things. I feel that menswear is a part of the market, particularly in the emerging sector, which has been, and still is, under represented, at least by local designers. Talent like this, I haven’t seen for some time.  It’s wonderful to think that the dressing of the modern man is being catered for so beautifully. The main thing I love about this label is just simply it’s wearability. No fuss, manly, well tailored, nicely detailed, tasteful and well, I think pretty close to perfect.

It is a privilege for me to be able to write with such genuine enthusiasm about the talent of these young, upcoming, positive, talented, gracious, emerging designers. It is the red passion which fills my veins.

I just had to ask Mr Amxander himself, the questions that were burning a hole in my fashion week head.

Meet Amxander by Label Ministry.

 

ARTICLE. BY COURTNEY HOLM

Model standing in a area of earth moving soil in casual sports luxe attire.

Courtney graduated with First Class Honours from the University of Technology Sydney and her debut at L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival in 2013 led her to re-locate to Melbourne. It’s not hard to see why I loved interviewing Courtney, a young, dynamic, talented designer, who seems to have boundless energy.  Not only is she putting a collection on the runway at VAMFF in a couple of days, she also got married a couple of weeks ago. And I thought I was busy!

She is described by NJAL (Not Just A Label) as “the designer and director of sports-luxe Australian menswear label”, and that her “label is distinct for its assimilation of pop-culture street styling, elemental sportswear and tailoring details”, which is “designed and hand produced in Melbourne, injecting a fresh equilibrium of functional, high-end fashion into a niche menswear market”. And, “her use of varied materials, such as polyurethane plastics, luxury knits, sportswear and hard-wearing materials with quality cottons, silks and wool give each piece inner softness with an overriding masculine exterior. The amalgamation of high fashion detailing with sportswear and street style makes a bold statement while the prevalence of functionality, style and fit ensure a wearable outcome for a discerning customer”. 

Article. by Courtney Holm. The interview by Label Ministry.

Until next time,

Jade xx

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Australian Fashion Industry, Interview, Melbourne Fashion Festival, Men, VAMFF

Amxander The Great

March 3
Model standing in front of a red wall dressed completely in black but wearing a donkey brown jacket with hoodie.

In my opinion, Amxander is headed for the big time. The world at large awaits their obvious talent and next week, Melbourne, is their fashion oyster!

 

It is ramping up to that time of year again.

Melbourne. VAMFF. The fashion festival that spreads as far and wide as the city of Melbourne itself.  The excitement is palpable and why wouldn’t it be?  With so many designers descending upon Melbourne to show their collections on the runway, and many of whom, call Melbourne home.

I am particularly excited this year as I have always been a fan of designers who tackle the menswear side of things. I feel that menswear is a part of the market, particularly in the emerging sector, which historically and currently is significantly under represented, at least by local designers.

This year however, I am thrilled to say I will be watching with great anticipation as Jason Pang’s label, Amxander shows off! And show off they will.

Talent like this, I haven’t seen for some time.  It’s wonderful to think that the dressing of the modern man is being catered for so beautifully, with the likes of ASSK, Article. by Courtney Holm, and of course the highlight of this article, Amxander. The main thing I love about this label is just simply it’s wearability. No fuss, manly, well tailored, nicely detailed, tasteful and well, I think pretty close to perfect.

It is a privilege for me to be able to write with such genuine enthusiasm about the talent of these young, upcoming, positive, talented, gracious, emerging designers. It is the red passion which fills my veins.

I just had to ask Mr Amxander himself, the questions that were burning a hole in my fashion week head before I wear myself out with my own excitement over the coming week in Melbourne …

 

Male model standing in front of a blue wall in white t but with colourful blue tones jacket and two fluorescent tubes being held by hands and arms on either side of him.

LM

I absolutely love your label. It has been a long time since I have seen such innovative, interesting, and most importantly wearable men’s fashion in Australia. Who is behind the AMXANDER label?

AMX

The label AMXANDER was formed from the ideas and experiences of a few close friends.

We all come from various design and design-related marketing backgrounds. Our business manager, Jake Chen, Art Director, Edmond Chua, and myself, Creative Director.

All of us joined together with the goal to bring a new light to the menswear market, which we found to be especially under-represented/under-developed in Australia.

LM

You describe your label as ‘print focused’ design? Would you regard this the same as sublimation garments?

AMX

The idea of print should not be constricted to only being sublimations or digital applications. By print we mean creating a motif – a symbol. It may be through different textile applications, for example knitting, embossing, or embroidery. There are various ways to ‘create print’. This is the core idea behind our label and we try to think of new ways to communicate our symbols in new and innovative ways each season.

LM

You have been described by NJAL (Not Just A Label) as ‘Black Sheep’ … ‘designers revolutionizing the industry and forging their own paths’. How do you see yourselves?

AMX

It truly is an honour for us as a young label to be given such credit. I see us as a small team of hardworking individuals who have a clear vision of what our take on a menswear brand should be. I am glad that we are still able to have that vision and keep our minds focused – relieving ourselves of the fads that revolves around this industry. We try to keep ourselves on the right track.

 

LM

How would you describe the AMXANDER man? Who specifically is your demographic?

AMX

The AMXANDER guy is someone who understands and appreciates fashion in an understated manner; someone who would like to stand out from the crowd and exert their individuality from time to time, but also be cautious of not going overboard.

LM

Do you intend to take your label overseas?

AMX

Taking the label overseas has always been an initial plan of ours. So far we have showcased in New York, London, Paris and also have a wider presence in Asia.

Model standing in front of a red wall dressed completely in black but wearing a donkey brown jacket with hoodie.

LM

I particularly love your collection ‘Forage’, but I love the others too! How do achieve making each collection look so distinct?

AMX

Our main idea revolves around the fact that the menswear market doesn’t shift around trends as much as womenswear – as such, our collections are based on a ‘theme’ rather than being a seasonal inclusion.

You’ll notice that our collections all feature classic menswear silhouettes (the tee-shirt, sweatshirt, etc.) and each collection uses prints, textiles and other techniques to bring forth the theme that the collection is named after.

Each theme that we explore revolves around existing masculinity ‘myths’ and symbolism. For example, our first collection, Shatter, revolved around the primal man, contrasted against the digital revolution, and our second collection, Hounds, revolved around the classic hounds tooth motif – traditionally a symbol of wealth in the late 1800s.

LM

Please define the term ‘Capsule Collection’

AMX

‘Capsule Collection’ to me is a sufficient sized range that a label puts together that represents a clear theme/concept.

It is also an appetizer for the core concept behind the brand and what it has to offer.

As you can see from our website, we’re currently offering our 5th collection’s capsule to communicate the core ideologies behind the collection via simple garments.

Model standing in front of a red wall dressed in a white t and facing the camera looking through clear perspex and a frame of white paint.

LM

Where do you find the themes/names for each collection?

AMX

As with all ideas, these themes come from curiosity. We throw these ideas around, and sometimes we hit an idea that just resonates well for each of us.

LM

I believe you worked for Mary Katrantzou in London. Wow! What did you love most about this experience?

AMX

She has always been an inspiration to me since my days in university. The best part was actually getting exposed to the fashion industry at an international level.

Hectic schedules, business meetings, fabrics you can only dream of creating, top models, London Fashion Week backstage – these are only a few a many things that I got to be a part of and I remember it all very fondly.

Model standing in front of a red wall kicking a virtual white ball above his knees.

LM

You say you wanted ‘to bring a breath of fresh air to the Australian menswear market’. I believe you have. How did you formulate your plan to bring this into being?

AMX

We have noticed that there has been a drastic shift in the once static high-end market that resulted in contemporary labels really making an impact on the fashion scene. What was especially interesting was that we found men wanted to escape the pencil pushing life, and express themselves as individuals. We wanted to create an avenue for this and thus created AMXANDER.

LM

Where and how do you look for inspiration?

AMX

I usually articulate ideas from what I experience every day. I am a very ‘visual’ person. Random things capture my attention in day to day life – whether it is a well dressed stranger or things that I see on the media. I am not one who is fixated about where I draw my inspirations from; it is something that is ever changing.

LM

How do you feel about the support levels within the Australian fashion industry?

AMX

It is gradually improving as more and more organizations realize the importance of their input in cultivating Australia’s next generation of fashion creatives.

Of course, it would be great to see large retailers take on emerging labels – it’s going to be a risk, but it could pay handsomely for the industry.

LM

Do you believe that there is more support for Australian emerging designers overseas? If so, why?

AMX

I must admit that there is a much bigger platform outside of Australia; the market for fashion is  just more responsive to interesting ideas. There is still a level of conservativeness here in Australia.

LM

Do you believe that the creation of a successful menswear label is more difficult than women’s wear?

AMX

Women generally spend more time and effort deciding and putting together what they wear. So my answer would be yes.

It almost takes double the effort selling clothing to men as apposed to women – that’s just how it is – for now.

Model standing in front of a grey wall in a grey jacket, patterned shirt and black pants.

LM

Do you believe that Australian men dress well?

AMX

I believe they actively care for their appearance but it can be quite monotonous – in a good way.

Most men seem to favor blue-collar dressing and/or what I call ‘slouch-chic’ (a combination of various loosely-cut garments, almost loungewear-like).

LM

If you could offer Australian men advice on how to dress better, what would that be?

AMX

I might be a bit biased on this one but I’d obviously hope to see more men willing to tackle a wider range of textiles and colours.

Most of my male friends tend to say that they feel comfortable in t-shirts and chinos/jeans.

This is where a subtle pop of color or small applied details could separate one from the crowd without going overboard.

LM

What is your opinion of the way Australians present themselves in general?

AMX

Australians are generally quite outspoken and can easily adapt to being in most foreign situations.

From experience, they definitely light up the room!

Model standing in front of a grey wall in a patterned jacket, black shorts and loafers.

LM

Your designs almost remind me of a media/visual arts graduate’s work. How have you taken your vision of patterns and transformed it to fabric?

AMX

We design as a team. Despite being in different areas of design, we all come from common arts backgrounds. (Sketching, Painting, Computer Aided Design etc.).  This is a form of language that we communicate with. Together we figure out ways of executing our work in 3D context.

LM

Where are your fabrics sourced?

AMX

It varies but most of the time it would be locally sourced in Australia or Asia.

LM

Where are your garments made?

AMX

Some garments are made in-house. Otherwise, we work closely with our pattern makers (who have over 40 years experience) in Hong Kong.

LM

Does the production of your garments require particular machinery?

AMX

It depends on the requirements of each season, but we do sometimes require particular machinery to create certain things outside of the basic industrial machinery.

Male model standing in front of a grey wall in black pants and a digital print long sleeved T.

LM

What are the ultimate dreams of your label?

AMX

For me, I hope that AMXANDER can be a pioneer in the Australian menswear fashion scene.

We hope to be able to showcase to the world that there is a lot of creative talent down under. That we deserve the spotlight once in a while.

LM

What is your view of the runway and do you believe it is an important vehicle for exposure?

AMX

I believe having put together a runway show is an important vehicle for exposure but it is not the ONLY way. Established labels invest a lot of time, money and effort into putting together runway presentations and this may not be a luxury that all upcoming designers can afford.

Today, even the biggest brands are testing non-conventional ways of presenting their line and most have been extremely successful.

LM

Do you believe that much of your exposure is achieved through social media?

AMX

Social media has definitely played an important for us growing as an independent label.

I believe it is the most direct and efficient way to interact with our customers and they seem to react to it well.

Male model standing in front of a grey wall in black shorts and a patterned T with short sleeves and a rust leaf motif on the front.

LM

How do you feel about the traditional roles of editorial?

AMX

Editorials have been an important segment for decades.

Traditional or non-traditional, the images we see on most blogs or fashion websites are in fact editorials. Whether it be a set of backstage photographs or snaps of a dolled-up model from someone’s iPhone, any images that have been stylised in one way or another is a form of editorial work – that’s how I see it.

LM

How do you select working with particular stylists and creative teams?

AMX

We surround ourselves with people whom we feel comfortable with and who respect us for being creative individuals.

LM

What are you most looking forward to in your involvement with VAMFF?

AMX

It is our first runway show with VAMFF and so far the pre-runway preparations have been very smooth.

We are definitely looking forward to meeting new people and get as much feedback as we can to further grow AMXANDER.

Until next time,

Jade xx

Label Ministry logo which is a picture of a stylised coathanger

 

 

 

Accreditations:

Model: Greg Han & Benjamin Charles |  Photography: Chen Chi  & Vikk Shayen | Stylist: Jake Chen |