Frederick Jenkyn

As all of my devoted followers already know, earlier this year, I had the pleasure of perusing on mass, the breathtaking young smorgasbord of talent that Australia serves up each and every year at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. After the week long event, which is the highlight of the years for all Australian fashion devotees, I methodically work my way through the incredible mix of entrepreneurial youth, offering them the opportunity to publish an affordable and effective public relations interview to promote their names and their emerging brands.

Frederick Jenkyns collection was outstanding. I met him the very day of the unveiling of his collection, but am bringing you this interview after corresponding with him in London, his new place of residence.

As I am sure you are aware, and if you are not, please consider this.

Our emerging designers are quite literally our fashion future.  They represent the group of people who will lead us strongly, both locally and internationally, in the ethical and sustainable production of our beloved fashion industry. Young people such as Frederick will most likely be the names behind your choice of dressing and the other interiors of our design lives for decades to come. It is essential that we support them, read about them, buy their product and offer them our gratitude and encouragement.

Please remember to share  the love.

Australian fashion is depending on you …

 

Meet Frederick Jenkyn.

In five years? I want to have my own studio with pattern makers/design assistants. A machinist and a social media/online manager.

Rolls and rolls of fabrics and a stock room filled to the brim.

I would like to think I’ll be complaining about needing more space. But then I will think, I need to pay for the embroidery for next season so it’s not a good time to upgrade.

I will only wear black. In case someone visits the studio and I won’t look a mess.

And in the bottom draw of my desk, that looks like a filing draw, I’ll keep some throw rugs for the “before show” all-nighters.

Frederick Jenkyn

 

Here is Frederick Jenkyn’s story so far …

Frederick Jenkyn as a brand emphasises wearable innovation through unconventional textiles and hand crafted detailing traversing the borderline between couture extravagance and everyday wearability.

Frederick Jenkyn

 

LM

How did you become interested in fashion design?

FJ

I have been playing dress up and dressing my mum, friends, nan since I was three. Actually deciding on the career was a story very familiar with people of my generation, the schooling system is telling you to pick a career, your parents are telling you to do something you love but the two are hardly compatible, especially at the all boys school I attended. So after a bit of soul searching I decided the career that mixed most of my hobbies, interest and passion would be fashion design. Two years later I was applying for fashion schools, five years later I was in fashion week now here we are.

LM

What is the baseline of your design inspiration?

FJ

For me I choose a concept to start, in this stage I try to look at purely conceptual images, for this range I looked at the idea of shedding and becoming new. From the conceptual ideas I develop fabrication and then from that fabrications I develop sketches of garments suitable for the fabrication and season.

LM

How would you describe the differences in fashion between Sydney and London?

FJ

The differences come down to climate both atmospheric and cultural. London has a history in tailoring, a history with an abundance of intercontinental cultural influence. While Australia (partially in the last 20 years) is developing these cultural influences, it is a very different society. This is not a negative however as we see Australian designers carving out a new style, an all year round resort identity and have a very distinct effortless style, while London has much more defined seasons.

LM

Do you believe that Australian fashion is unique?

FJ

Australian Fashion is unique

There is no questioning that. It is making waves internationally and we are seeing international designers borrowing ideas for Australian designers and vice versa, we must be doing something right.

LM

How would you describe the Frederick Jenkyn aesthetic?

FJ

Frederick Jenkyn as a brand emphasises wearable innovation through unconventional textiles and hand crafted detailing traversing the borderline between couture extravagance and everyday wearability. Frederick Jenkyn brings together a youthful aesthetic with sophisticated application of textural textile manipulation giving a feeling of everyday, wearable luxury.

LM

Who are your favourite Australian and international designers?

FJ

Dion Lee and Christopher Esber are two designers I’ve admired for years and I have interned for both of them, truly understanding what was behind their work grew my admiration. Internationally J.W Anderson and of course Alexander McQueen are two major inspirations for me.

LM

Who is the “Frederick Jenkyn” woman? How does she see herself in the world?

FJ

This is always the most difficult question for me to answer.

I originally thought of her as “young, social woman in a creative industry.”

The more I find out about the people that appreciate my designs the more I realise that there is no one single woman and I am always surprised. Although my original idea seemed to run true, I am constantly surprised by interest from people outside of this bracket.

LM

How would you like to see Australian designers better supported?

FJ

The Australian Fashion Chamber needs more support and need to reciprocate that support to young designers.

I honestly think support for designers comes down to a problem within Australian culture where we are reluctant to recognise talent unless it is validated abroad first. We see this across all creative industries and fashion is no exception.

LM

Are you a fan of street style?

FJ

I love street style, I do try to include streetwear elements into my range I think streetwear is the future in a way, we see a growing trend of younger people taking elements of streetwear and pairing them with designer wear and I try and offer that mix all ready in my designs.

LM

What is your view of the fashion blogger?

FJ

Bloggers are the future. Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, Elle ignore what a lot of the younger generation really want, they pander to a certain demographic and aren’t changing in the ways they need to to remain relevant. I see Bloggers are breaking down this hierarchy of fashion publications and showing people perspectives that are more inspiring and more in line with their own. As a designer, bloggers have offered me readership that reach my consumer and don’t make me feel at the mercy of a conglomerate.

LM

Do you believe they are here to stay?

FJ

I would say yes, but with the way technology moves you never really know, I have grown up knowing nothing but the internet age. I have never bought a fashion magazine but I have read countless blogs.

LM

Do you believe that the runway is an important avenue of expression for new designers?

FJ

This is a question with no real answer because some designers are capable of going straight to production and sales. This is viable through social media, press and celebrity. We have seen in the past that the runway is a valuable rout to becoming recognised but it is far from the only one. The runway is developing once again though, and designers can offer the chance to buy items as the show is going. Often, even selling out some items before the last garment has left the stage. This is an amazing development. Time will tell but showing on a runway does have an element of prestige.

LM

Do you feel that the Australian consumer supports Australian designers?

FJ

I do.

You can’t ignore home base, the Australian consumer is invaluable to the Australian designer but it becomes a case of widespread recognition abroad before widespread recognition occurs locally. This is particularly true with the younger consumer. In this interconnected world, it is unavoidable that an outside influence plays a big role in our market.

LM

Do you believe that Australian designers need to find success outside of Australia before they find real success at home?

FJ

Yes

LM

If you could have one wish, how would you like to see the industry in Australia change?

FJ

I wish there was the same support networks you see internationally.

A developed Fashion Chamber. An array of scholarships and competitions and foundations of workmanship providing skills that we seem to lack. We seem to be lacking these things.  Perhaps it is because we are a young nation but I wish they would manifest a little faster.

 

LM

Where would you like to see yourself in five years?

FJ

In five years. I would want to have my own studio with pattern makers/design assistants. A machinist and a social media/online manager.

Rolls and rolls of fabrics and a stock room filled to the brim.

I would like to think I’ll be complaining about needing more space but I need to pay for the embroidery for next season so its not a good time to upgrade.

I will only wear black, purely in case someone visits the studio so I don’t look a mess.

And in the bottom draw of my desk that looks like a filing draw I’ll keep some throw rugs for the “before show” all-nighters.

LM

Where are your garments manufactured?

FJ

All over the world, I have leather with finishes from Italy, embroidery from India, hand knitting from England, and machine knitting from Australia.

Most of my range I put together myself in Australia. With my relocation to London, I think that I will need to adapt, so we will see.

LM

What fabrics are you most drawn to and why?

FJ

I am drawn to structure, bonded fabrics and leathers. I like a cotton cord knit and I love modern embroidery.

I think I am drawn to these forms of fabrication due to the cleanness and almost cold qualities they possess. They offer a feeling of control and a finish that I find desirable.

I usually look at my final product and get a feeling of pleasure from the finished look. I am unsure what drives me exactly to choose the fabrics. I am just focused to create the vision I have in my head.

LM

If you could select a culture which most inspires your work, which one would it be?

FJ

I think you can’t help but be influenced by your reality. Mine is a mixture of art, youth and fashion.

I find myself constantly inspired by the young artists in independent galleries, this culture of up and coming, struggling youth creating art that reflects the issues that are pertinent to them. This culture isn’t limited by race, religion or heritage. It’s a culture purely brought together by shared interest in the arts.

LM

What do you feel is the most important “fashion aspect” for your consumer?

FJ

I think confidence, ability to be sure in yourself.

My brand isn’t about mass production or on trend design. It is about a unique feeling. My ideal consumer would hopefully reflect that. I think it’s important for the consumer to find an identity within my brand.

LM

What is your view about ethical and sustainable fashion, and do you believe it is completely achievable?

FJ

Fashion has become such a juggernaut … the majority of it’s current practices aren’t sustainable.

I like many designers use cotton and coloured fabrics. The environmental impact of cotton and dying are gigantic. Sustainability isn’t easily achievable unless we reduce production from seasonal pieces to quality pieces which transcend trend.

Ethics wise, fashion may be the worst industry in the world. The pollution contributes to the slow killing of  people, animals and the environment.

We are all responsible for understanding the effects of fashion, and must all work together to bring about a new shift.

LM

Where can your label be purchased? Can we expect to see your collection in Harrods anytime soon?

FJ

My label is currently made to order.   See below for website/contact details.

As for Harrods, I hope that you will see my rack there one day but there is nothing worse that an ill prepared designer attempting to stock a department store.

As I’m yet to be at the production capabilities of more developed fashion houses I am happy to wait …

 

 

 

 

 

 

Designer | Frederick Jenkyn

Meet the work of Frederick Jenkyn | Frederick Jenkyn Instagram | Frederick Jenkyn Facebook

Model | Kelly Hockey | Bianca Hepburn

Kelly Hockey Work | Bianca Hepburn Work

Photographers | Chris Fatseas | Dario Gardiman

Chris Fatseas Work | Dario Gardiman Work

MUA | Jasmine Grieves

Jasmine Grieves Work

Illustrator | R. Song

R. Song Work

Until next time,

Jade xx