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Australian Designer, Australian Fashion Industry, Global Fashion Industry, Interview

Heavenly Scarves

August 16

Model sitting in a photographic shoot wearing an emerald green dress on a colourful green patterned modern chair, covered in green colourful scarves.

She is feminine, vulnerable, creative, and kind. Always confident and probably an environmental activist. Supremely human, flawed, constantly in flux, and always learning. A perfectionist of course, and highly passionate, but not fettered by the passing of time or conventional boundaries. Aspiring to soar and constantly on the search for inner and outer freedom, she has embarked on a life long journey to find creative fulfilment through which she can finally liberate her soul.

Linda Valentina Avramides

Model sitting for a photographic shoot for designer scarf label Valentina Avramides wrapped in a scarf and wearing a faux cream shaggy jacket.

One of the things that I love most about Australian fashion is the freedom of expression, inspiration and diversity that is ever-changing, ever-present and ever-evolving. One such brilliant example is Valentina Avramides, a wonderfully luxurious, colourful and contemporary scarf range. The collection exudes sophistication, class and finesse. I am not especially a scarf ‘donner’ but since discovering the superb quality and silky luxury, I am proud to announce that I am probably the newest convert. Scarves, especially silk, are incredibly versatile and they hide a multitude of sins, not to mention incredibly warm in cold weather. The designer, Linda Avramides, a Sydney graphic artist, has just launched her first collection. Her strict upbringing ensured that old Hollywood films took the place of her social life and early influencers were the glamorous and great iconic beauties, Ava, Grace, Audrey, Elizabeth, Natalie and Sophia, who engendered a love of photography, architecture and dance. About to unleash her creative masterpieces in London, Paris, Dubai and New York, the collection is available for pre-order now at Valentina Avramides … but you better get in fast girl because these babies won’t last for long!

Model sitting for a photographic shoot for designer scarf label Valentina Avramides in a red dress and high black shoes.

How was the Valentina Avramides label concept birthed?

I was inspired to do a show of my paintings in 2012, ‘Spirit Dance’; a series of illustrations depicting women in various stages of life and love. The paintings were multi media; collage, Japanese ink brush, vinyl paint, watercolour and pen on parchment. Deeply inspired by the fluidity and energy of dance, I knew it would transpose beautifully on silk showcasing the flow and sensuality inherent in its texture. This showing lead to the creation of my scarf collection where women can literally wear the specific dance of their own life’s journey.

You once mentioned that the inspiration for your label comes from outside of yourself. Please explain the relationship you have to your product?

This is true of creative processes for all people, however, I believe I am especially and consciously connected with my angels. When I began to paint, I had no clear vision; no real idea.

Just raw passion. An inspired, subconscious emotion. Almost a blind compulsion, which I felt the need to express and communicate visually.

At times, I would paint and rest and then I was asked to continue. It was almost trance like. I felt my hand was guided, a little like automatic writing. When the feeling of my trance subsided, I knew my image was completed.

Model sitting for a photographic shoot for designer scarf label Valentina Avramides wearing a black dress and scarf wrapped around her head.

Who is the Valentina Avramides woman?

She is feminine, vulnerable, creative, and kind. Always confident and probably an environmental activist. Supremely human, flawed, constantly in flux, and always learning. A perfectionist of course, and highly passionate, but not fettered by the passing of time or conventional boundaries. Aspiring to soar and constantly on the search for inner and outer freedom, she has embarked on a life long journey to find creative fulfilment through which she can finally liberate her soul.

How did you decide upon the chosen colour palette?

I am very well known for my monochromatic, and grey tonal wardrobe. I almost never wear colour or patterns. I believe strongly that colour heals. I intuitively choose colours to reflect a particular mood and soothe my aura. That is why I always adorn my tonal canvas with a bright flash of colour. A ring, a statement piece… a scarf.

In early 2012 I visited the retrospective Picasso exhibition at the Art Gallery of NSW, ‘Picasso: Masterpieces from the Musée National Picasso, Paris’. I was truly transported by the fluidity of line and extraordinary use of colour to convey narrative and emotion, as well as his ability to depict the female form in all its unique beauty. I was compelled and inspired to paint again.

Where do you see your product in years to come?

I see my scarves in huge demand in all the exclusive boutiques and stores throughout the world, bringing to light Australian design as leading edge and as current as any major fashion capital.

I also intend to expand my range incorporating silk evening coats, wraps, stoles and silk designer evening bags.

Model sitting for a photographic shoot for designer scarf label Valentina Avramides wearing a white contemporary jacket, white pants, lounging on a purple lounge.

What kind of retailers will stock your luxury scarf label?

High end, exclusive retailers throughout the world across the globe.

What designers are your heroes?

Christian Dior has inspired me in all its incarnations, from its inception to its latest collections. I would always opt for vintage Dior and Dior inspired creations.

You have always believed that your product is most suited to the overseas market. Why is that?

I find there is greater sophistication and emphasis on history and culture in Europe. I have strong family ties and friends scattered throughout the world. Culturally I align myself more with a European salon than the Australian outdoors and beach culture.

Model sitting for a photographic shoot for designer scarf label Valentina Avramides in a black dress and high black shoes.

Your range consists of three different sizes and two different styles? What inspired you to create the feminine tie, as well as the conventional square scarf style?

In my first collection, I found that the large square scarf was a shape that would best showcase the proportions of my paintings and artwork. I then expanded my collection with a smaller version of the square scarf to make it more versatile, later bringing in the tie scarf which is unisex and current.

I have always found my design inspiration in street-style as opposed to runway. My silk scarves are statement pieces that add an edge to any wardrobe and the ties can be worn as statement unisex jewellery.

Your scarves are made in Australia, with only the hand rolling of the square scarves being finished overseas. How important is Australian manufacturing to you?

I believe in supporting local industry and talent, in the same way that I wish to be encouraged and mentored by my peers. I worked closely with Think Positive (Digital Fabric Printers). A group of artists and technicians who strive to maintain high values, have uncompromising attention to detail, strict quality control and believe strongly in sustainability.

Model sitting for a photographic shoot for designer scarf label Valentina Avramides in an emerald green top with open shoulders and white trouser.

As an Australian artist I want to collaborate with like-minded, creative Australians. Australian design is leading edge and world class, and we must commit to our future by nurturing the amazing talent we have here.

What do you see as the current problems in the Australian fashion industry? Do you feel supported?

I feel that new designers need help to establish a business plan and general business advice. Too many designers start big, invest big and fail quickly.

I know we don’t like to focus on difficulty, but it does inspire other designers to know of your challenges when launching a label. What have yours been?

My biggest challenges have been to find locally made fabric, an almost impossible task, and competitively priced local hand finishers in order to produce a 100% Australian designed and manufactured product.

How important is it for you, to follow the dream of realising your own label?

I believe totally in my creativity and passion which is reflected in the Valentina Avramides label.

It is and will continue to be, my life’s work.

You see your label in London, Paris and New York … what retailers do you hope will stock your amazing collection?

Saks, Barneys, Macy’s, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, Harrods, Victoria Beckham, Galleries Lafayette in Paris, and Corso Como in Milan.

Model sitting for a photographic shoot for designer scarf label Valentina Avramides wearing a black dress with converse.

What advice would you give to someone who is starting their own label?

To carefully do your research, have a clear business plan, and engage professional advice.

How would you like Australian designers and creatives to be better supported?

I would like to see more open access to government grants and workshops for new emerging designers.

When can we look forward to another collection?

2018!

Model sitting for a photographic shoot for designer scarf label Valentina Avramides wearing a black strapless bra and covered in a scarf.

What Australian designers inspire you?

Zimmermann, Scanlan & Theodore, Constantina, Dion Lee

And international?

Giambattista Valli, Gucci, Prada, Christian Dior, Armani, Nina Ricci, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Balenciaga and Lanvin

How would you best describe the Australian aesthetic?

Colourful, outdoorsy, wild, unfettered and free.

Where do you see yourself in five years from now?

Designing my successful label and travelling between the major, global fashion capitals.

Meet Valentina Avramides on Instagram

Shop Valentina Avramides … pre-order now!

Model sitting for a photographic shoot for designer scarf label Valentina Avramides wearing a black open shoulder top, white pants on a bright yellow chair.

Accreditations

Designer | Linda Valentina Avramides

Photography | Karlstrom Creatives

Hair & MUA | Chris Chisato Arai

Stylist | Jade Cosgrove | Label Ministry

Production | Cartel Public Relations

Model | Kyra Charalambu

Until next time,

Jade xx

Australian Fashion Industry, Fashion Designer, Global Fashion Industry, Interview

ASSK

February 26

Autumn/Winter 2015. Asian model sitting in front a red vinyl sheet in a blue bomber jacket with writing across the back of the jacket. The model is being photographed in white mirrored sunglasses.

The fashion industry has changed dramatically over the past five years. Having an international presence is very important. Adhering to a strong brand vision.

Sarah Schofield

Autumn/Winter 2015 - Male model dressed in ASSK - black and white bomber jacket with matching pants standing in front of a red vinyl sheet. Street wear at it's best.

Photographer | Elliott Lauren
MUA/Hair | Holly Rose Butler
Models | Chadwicks

I am in the process of gearing myself up for Melbourne Fashion Week. During my usual reconnaissance of scouring interesting fashion food in the lead up, I was fascinated by the street label simply know as ASSK, and quite simply blown away by the photography surrounding their Autumn/Winter 2015 and Spring/Summer 2016 campaigns.

Of course my first question was how the name was birthed.

ASSK is an anagram of the designers initials. Sarah Schofield and Agatha Kowalewski. The girls have been living in Paris working in the fashion industry for a few years. Sarah was working at Louis Vuitton, and Agatha was working as a stylist when they started ASSK in 2013. Their business and studio are based there and they have press offices in Paris and in NY.

Both girls are originally from Australia, and Melbourne especially has remained really important to ASSK.

They sell through Distal Phalanx in Melbourne, and have a really strong base there.

They are really excited to be back home and showing in the Discovery Runway at VAMFF.

Their label has been heavily influenced by technology and internet culture.

The internet has always played a big part in the ASSK brand. Agatha and Sarah first connected on the internet and worked with Melbourne artist Oliver van der Lugt over the internet for two years before they met.

Their first four collections were sold via the internet over look books to people they didn’t know. In places they had never visited.

This interconnectivity through technology has been very important to them.

On the topic of inspiration, they are always interested in current pop culture and movements about the future. They are never interested in looking back at the past.

They are inspired by sub-cultures, and their new ability to form online. Once the emergence of sub-cultures was quite localised. Like the Punk movement in London. They now celebrate disparate individuals across the world meeting and connecting over shared interests and beliefs.

Interestingly, their garments are made in Poland close to Wroclaw. This is where Agatha’s family comes from.

They also make some sublimation garments in China. Although expensive, it serves a good purpose as it allows us to have access to top quality machinery. For their customer, this means “super detailed effects”.

I simply cannot wait to see what this label comes up with on the Runway at VAMFF. Any wonder these two girls are enjoying the sweet smell of success.

Enjoy xx

Jade

Autumn/Winter 2015 Campaign. Asian girl sitting in an ASSK sweater with black and white textured wall behind.

Photographer | Elliott Lauren
MUA/Hair | Holly Rose Butler
Models | Chadwicks

Do you feel that art & fashion belong together on the Runway?

ASSK

Yes. I definitely believe that there are strong links between fashion and art on and off the runway.

I think that the more recent trend for designers to show in presentations rather than traditional runway gives a chance for people to be free and creative. To lean closer to an immersive experience or performance art.

Do you believe that editorial or social media gives your label the most beneficial exposure?

ASSK

Editorial and social media are two very different things.

Editorial exposure can be quite hard to get. Often clothing goes out on a lot of shoots, but that doesn’t mean it will make it onto the model. Or that the image will be visible in a magazine. Hopefully, the stylist will let you know about the photo, but often it is represented in poor taste (like a caucasian model with cornrows) and you can’t publicise it.

But when it does come together and a beautiful image is featured in a great magazine, it’s awesome!

Traditional editorial press is still important to become known by top stylists, photographers and editors.

Social media is great for gaining new fans and having a direct line to them.

It allows the opportunity to strengthen the brands image and reach people all over the world with ease. It provides a way of knowing who buys the clothes and how they style them. Our fans are really creative and create a lot of great content for us – they tag us in everything!

What is your view of the way young women dress today? Do you feel that some of them tend to dress the same?

ASSK

I think the way young people dress today is great, and while there is often local or global trends, I wouldn’t say that people dress the same.

Today there is more freedom than ever before for young people to be whoever they identify as and dress how they like.

I think that the internet has allowed more freedom as well. Connecting to different communities online makes us open to ideas and have access to different clothing.

We devoured issues of ‘The Face’ which were often months out of date by the time they reached Australia. now you have much more There is much greater access to visuals and clothing now.

Would you describe your label as street style?

ASSK

Yes. We would identify as ‘street style’. As the brand has developed it has become more ready-to-wear rather than just simple t-shirts and hoodies.

Autumn/Winter 2015 Male model standing in front of a black and white wall in a black bomber jacket and street wear pants.

Photographer | Elliott Lauren
MUA/Hair | Holly Rose Butler
Models | Chadwicks

Do you think it is difficult for emerging designers to receive sponsorship opportunities?

ASSK

I don’t think so. I think there is a lot of opportunities for designers to look for sponsorship. Many companies are excited by the ‘glamourous’ idea of being linked with young fashion brands.

Nothing is ever going to come easy as a young designer, but it is all about being creative and aligning yourself with companies which have similar goals.

Do you believe that it is easier for emerging designers to achieve faster and greater success outside of Australia?

ASSK

No not at all. I think that it is definitely easier in some countries, such as England, with the support offered.

Australia also has its advantages. People see it as interesting and innovative. Australians are inventive problem solvers. It is a very easy and efficient place to start a small business.

Today with new ways of disseminating brand image and innovative ways of selling to international buyers, there is no reason why Australian brands can’t be as successful as designers based overseas.

Photographer | Elliott Lauren
MUA/Hair | Holly Rose Butler
Models | Chadwicks

Why do you think it is so hard for emerging designers to get off the ground in Australia?

ASSK

I think that it is for two reasons.

Firstly, most of the emerging designers in Australia launch their brand on graduating university.

I think to increase your likely hood of success you first need to gain a good level of industry experience, strong industry connections and have a solid amount of money saved.

Secondly, I think that many people are following the same pattern that other older Australian designers have followed and failed with.

They graduate, launch a brand with little experience, have the overheads of a studio before selling anything, and they focus on the local market for years believing they need to make it here before trying overseas.

The fashion industry has changed dramatically over the past five years. Having an international presence is very important. Adhering to a strong brand vision.

Trying to flood a small commercial pool means the reliance on the strength of one market or one currency.

Do you believe that the Runway is an essential tool to show a fashion collection?

ASSK

I believe that within the first two years a designer needs public presentation of their work. It doesn’t have to take the form of runway, but it is important for press and buyers. It is a way to solidify a vision through all the aspects … invitation to music to casting.

It often becomes a springboard for new ideas to continue with in the future.

Male Model standing in front of black doors in July 2016 in Paris.

Photography | Christelle de Castro
Models | Chadwicks

What are your thoughts regarding ethical and sustainable practices?

ASSK

I think that brands should absolutely try and work within the highest ethical and sustainable practices, both in their production and in their everyday studio life.

Where would you like to see your label in five years?

ASSK

We don’t know! We have had a great time and great success, but being a small brand is very hard. Especially because we never set out to have a brand, it was a creative project which snowballed in popularity and grew too quickly.

We are currently working on a plan to have better balance in the company. We need more time to be creative and less time wading through emails. Ideally the brand would become a more manageable collaborative project again, working with artists and creatives. We would release small capsule collections outside of the fashion calendar.

Do you believe that the difficult times in Australian fashion can be solved by collaborative efforts to help one another?

ASSK

I believe that people working collaboratively is very important, not only for projects but in the sharing of information. It can be really hard to start out and nobody wants to be seen as struggling in a small competitive fashion industry.

Sometimes the most generous thing you can give is the truth.

Do you think fashion industries outside of Australia enjoy more connectivity and a more cohesive culture?

ASSK

Not necessarily. I think that each industry and each country/city has its pros and cons.

London is great because of the support offered to young designers, but it’s living costs have become insane.

Paris has amazing fashion houses and history, but it is a very hard place to assimilate into and run a small business.

New York has an amazing young scene with artists and energy, but the work pace is intense and the city is still dominated by big commercial business.

Everywhere has its good and bad side. Australia has great advantages. People shouldn’t get bogged down by feeling that we are missing out.

Male model standing in an ASSK shirt from the 2016 campaign shoot in front of a red door.

Photography | Christelle de Castro
Models | Chadwicks

Who are your favourite Australian and international fashion designers?

ASSK

In Australia I love Maticevski. He creates beautiful clothing and I admire his success.

Internationally, I love Raf Simons for Dior, especially the couture – I love almost all Haute Couture!

Agatha and I both love Vetements. We are friends with many of their collaborators and their energy has changed Paris. I feel ver hopeful for what Demna Gvasalia will now do at Balenciaga.

I also love Hood By Air. I would not buy any of their clothes however, I think what they have achieved is incredible. They started from nothing and have actually changed fashion and created a certain culture – not many designers can say that.

Their brand identity is so strong and individual. Their presentations are some of the best I have ever seen.

What is your view of social media as a platform for the exposure of fashion?

ASSK

I think social media is great, it has definitely influenced the way that we communicate with people. Through Instagram we have a direct line with our fans and customers all over the world. We have made friends, met collaborators and connected with people, which would otherwise have been impossible with the old media.

What do you believe is the impact of “fast fashion” on a label such as yours?

ASSK

I don’t know if fast fashion has an impact on our brand. We learnt early on that our customer likes individual pieces and the crazier the better!

We don’t need to worry about relying on selling basics, and our designs often have complicated prints and small details that you don’t find in mass-market clothing.

I think it’s really bad when mass-market blatantly rips off young designers. Their accelerated supply chain allows for quicker in-store product placement, but I think customers are becoming more aware. The internet has made it possible to call-out ‘the copiers’.

We have had a few copies and there is counterfeit ASSK out there, but it’s not at the point where it affects our bottom line or brand image. We laugh it off and keep going.

Male model standing in front of black doors on blue vinyl sheeting in street wear t-shirt, shorts and timberland style boots.

Photography | Christelle de Castro
Models | Chadwicks

What would you regard as the ultimate success for your label?

ASSK

The dream would be for ASSK to release several small capsule collections each year in collaboration with different artists and designers. To stay true to our ideals and creativity.

Our personal dreams are to have the time to return to our individual careers. Mine as a creative consultant for emerging brands, and working as a designer inside a luxury fashion house in Paris again. Agatha’s … working in the nutrition and fitness industry.

Love ASSK here.

ASSK clothing can be purchased in Australia at Distal Phalanx in Melbourne.

Can’t wait to see what these guys come up with at VAMFF 2016.

See you on Instagram!

Until next time,

Jade xx

Accreditations:

Autumn/Winter 2015

Photography: Elliott Lauren

MUA/Hair: Holly Rose Butler

Models : Chadwicks (Prince, Karina and Andy)

Spring/Sumer 2016

Photography: Christelle de Castro

Models: Chadwicks (Malick and Dourane)