Australian Fashion Archives – Page 3 of 4 – Label MinistryLabel Ministry

Australian Designer, Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Fashion Designer, Global Fashion Industry, Interview

Akira Isogawa

December 14

“A garment can transcend, giving it a soul.

I translate fabrics into soft and romantic silhouettes, using natural fabrics like silks and cottons, which are kind to the skin.

Distressing fabrics and alchemically treating them, gives the feeling of already ‘being loved’, thus evoking emotion. Even one-off fabrics found in flea markets can be given new life.

Richly embellished fabrics echo Eastern influences, and I have great respect for their traditions. Inspiration can be found from the past – re-using vintage textiles and sometimes creating replicas of them, incorporated with specific craftsmanship.

The number of hours someone has spent on manual work like this makes it priceless.

I see craftsmanship as an implement with which to realise one’s vision. Past, present and future; that slogan continues in almost everything around which my work evolves. Timeless beauty and femininity in my design is profound, in a way for the wearer to express their inner soul.”

Akira Isogawa

Akira Isogawa | Spring Summer 2017

This week I was blessed. Truly blessed.

I had the opportunity to sit down with Akira Isogawa, one of Australia’s most loved and iconic fashion designers. I can’t tell you how exciting this was for me. As a younger woman, some moons ago, ok, many moons ago, I used to ooooh and aaaah over the most exquisite fabrics reminiscent of liquid silk, colours that adorned only my imagination, and garments so beautiful I was sometimes left breathless. For the many moons which have passed since, Akira has continued as the master that he is, creating one collection after another, with the same, if not a greater level of beauty and craftsmanship.

To me this man is a legend.

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Fashion Designer, Instagram

Trash Talk

December 6

Fashion was and still is, about beauty, dignity, poise, and reverence.

When did it become ok for celebrities, Hollywood and otherwise to stop wearing underwear to red carpet events in the name of fashion just because they were wearing a certain type of dress? I have been watching this rise in vulgarity for some time now and I can no longer be quiet about it.

On the one hand we are all screaming about feminism and crying like babies when men stare at our boobs but then happily cement our own sexism and elevate to new heights our vulnerability and dissatisfaction by wearing fashion pieces which once upon a time would have shamed us all for being sluts.

Our obsession with things so tight, we can’t move, fabrics so sheer we leave nothing to the imagination, and openings on dresses so vast, we abandon our underwear and leave only parts God himself has witnessed on show to the world.

I don’t know what you think, but as this is an opinion piece, and as I fully have to admit, a little prone to a rant at times, I have to tell you that we are overdue for a change.

Sorry…

We all know what’s under people’s clothes. Do we really have to be subjected to the most private parts of one’s body and then pretend to call it fashion? Quite aside from the sheer ugliness of those body parts, who wants to see them? The line between pornography and fashion is becoming a little too “blended” for me. And no. Just because something has been carefully perfumed, manicured, and waxed doesn’t make it a show piece either.

I for one am sick of shorts so short I can almost see what’s been had for breakfast, tops so plunging I can see the shadow of the nipple, and dresses so short and revealing that I am unwillingly introduced to your cellulite thighs and then hello! nooo … your Ruby-Tuesday!

Enough! Yes, fashion is about creativity, imagination, diversity, and even cheekiness. But when did it become about nakedness and the soft crevices of well …

Quite aside from what we find acceptable to look at, and I acknowledge that my conservative view will not be shared by everyone, I do have to point out, how does this exposure and behaviour impact on our younger generations and social media platforms such as Instagram?

In making this behaviour the new “normal” are we not teaching the younger audience of the global fashion industry and horrifyingly our children who are without question, the most prolific users of Instagram, that a “following” is all important and that this is often achieved by very explicit content?

I believe we have an obligation to teach our younger generation about pride and dignity. To help them to understand that they are valuable and wonderful human beings who can enjoy and delight in fashion without the social constructs which promote the growing insistence and then consequential confusion of body shaming.

Naturally, I do not include the world of swimwear in my critique, as little clothing within our long accepted beach culture it totally acceptable. As a female, four small triangles otherwise known as the bikini wouldn’t offend anyone. As for the men, most of them wear boardies anyway don’t they, and if they don’t, we have been conditioned a long time ago to “not” look!

But on stage? The red carpet? Really. I ask you? Do we have to see people’s genitalia? In God’s name, what will be next? Men walking around with their penises slung out of their trousers just because the trousers boast a designer’s name? Would that make it ok?

Nope.

I have had enough.

I am the greatest lover of fashion of all time, but please don’t tell me it includes having to look at people’s breasts on mass bulging out of their garments or horrific glimpses of a vag.

There is ample opportunity in this world to wear as little as pleases you, but can we please not make it the stage or iconic red carpet events? It really, and I mean really, brings down the tone of an industry which has always enjoyed the exalted heights of glamour, class and style. Reminds me of that old adage … “money don’t buy class”. True or not?

Money these days seems to buy more and more of the same thing, especially on the red carpet. It usually equates to less and sadly, less, class.

If anyone was to ask my opinion? Be an example! Look beautiful. Be dignified. Be the voice to tell the world about the world’s amazing fashion designers, particularly the Australian ones, because everyone knows we are the best!

But don’t bring fashion down to the depths of the gutter.

That’s where the rats live.

Where the infectious diseases reside.

And life starts not to matter …

Let’s not take it there.

Synonymous with the word fashion has always been the virtues of beauty and dignity.

We have seriously lost our connection to the importance of strong moralistic human virtues and instead have become immersed in a debased cultural mindset of anything goes. This attitude helps nobody. It does not help humanity and it certainly doesn’t help our beloved fashion industry, Australian or otherwise.

Fashion was and still is, about beauty, dignity, poise, and reverence.

Let’s keep it that way.

Until next time,

Jade xx

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Events, Global Fashion Industry

Fashion Design Studio 2016

November 29

Forget restrictions. Forget modesty. Explore the freedom of sexual expression through couture swimwear with no rules. We didn’t come here to be sensible.

Emma Standen, Handsy Swimwear.

Last week I had the absolute pleasure of attending the Fashion Design Studio 2016 Graduate Runway Presentation at The Spine, Sydney TAFE.

Like each and every year, FDS seems to be able to churn out the most incredible fashion talent and this year was certainly no different.

Of course FDS, Fashion Design Studio, formerly East Sydney Tech is no stranger when it comes to churning out amazing creative talent. In it’s 61st year, it is the home of many a famous Australian designer whose names have well and truly commanded the respect and admiration of all within the industry both locally and internationally. And, stay there. Have they what! Akira Isogawa, Dion Lee, Nicky Zimmermann & Christopher Esber.

As I was only telling someone last night … yes, I am still banging on about my dearest passion.

At least I’m consistent!

It is the sole reason Label Ministry was created as an online platform.

To tell THE WORLD that we are simply the best!

Australian designers rock! I don’t believe there is a country in the world who can match the fashion talent we continuously unleash to the world at large, and quite frankly, I don’t believe there ever will.

We have “something”. Intangible. Unmistakably ours.

A freshness that identifies as Australian. Our fabrics, our designs, and the way in which we wear our clothes demonstrate our acceptance of diversity and imagination. Fuelled by the blessing of unlimited sunshine, white sands and royal blue oceans which stretch as far as the eye can see.

Yep. No-one can touch us and that’s a fact.

Australian Fashion Industry, Fashion Designer, Interview, Swimwear

LunarSand

November 23

Dark haired girl lying on the beach resting on her elbow looking at the camera wearing a red checked bikini with a picture of Felix the Cat on her left breast in a modelling shoot for a swimwear label.

Girl lying in a modelling shoot wearing a black and white one piece costume with her hands up holding her hair away from her face.

LunarSand is one of Australia’s rising swimwear labels.

Born in 2015 the label was birthed from the concept of strength and energy drawn from the moon and the earth representing wholeness and a sense of magic.

Founder Ruby Licciardi says her label, “embraces the wild, creative, energetic effect the full moon has on her devoted LunarSand tribe of empowered goddesses”.

It is synonymous with swimwear ‘funk’. It is the epitome of fun. Summer playfulness and heat related sillyness.

A lover of the one-piece, Ruby is equally comfortable creating the sexy bikini in all manner of colourful prints, coupled with lacing detail, and paying homage to the ever lovable “Felix The Cat”.

If you haven’t yet discovered LunarSand, you are just in time for summer!

Here is her story.

Enjoy xx

Model in a forest scene leaning backwards, outstretched in a white and emerald green bikini for a swimwear shoot.

Model | Creative Director | Eva Czarnocka

I love the night. It is quiet and mysterious. It feels like time stands still and you can just be amongst your thoughts.

Ruby Licciardi

I absolutely LOVE your label LunarSand. Where did the origins of the name come from?

Thank you so much! It’s always so nice to get positive feedback; it re-inspires and gives you that little boost you need. I played with names for months. I wanted something strong, which holds meaning and eludes to the origin of the product. I was helped along with glass or two of wine!

I love the effect of the full moon, people seem to be a little more wild, creative and energetic. I also feel a personal connection to the Lunar as many significant moments in our lives seem to be highlighted by a full moon. I met Asher (my husband) on a full moon, Atticus (our first son) was born on a full moon and funnily enough the very first LunarSand Look Book was shot on the week the stars and the moon were aligned.

I believe you have a textiles background. Tell me more.

Yes I do. I have always loved to create, draw, paint – I love working with my hands. I didn’t quite know which discipline I wanted to go into so studied a Bachelor of Design at COFA- the College of Fine Art. It was during my early study that I fell in love with textiles. I adore the tactile nature of textiles; I love that you can touch, feel and see the beauty of fabric. I majored in Textiles and Jewellery. I then went on to tutor third year at COFA and worked as a freelance textiles designer specialising in digital print. After the birth of my first son I moved into children’s wear and started the label Max Licciardi for ‘cheeky cherubs’. This was a lot of fun but wasn’t where my passion lies. I have also worked as a stylist for children’s wear and swimwear. Whilst I was freelancing, I always enjoyed designing prints for swimwear. My favourite process is engineering a design to sculpt perfectly around the contour of the female body. I like experimenting with symmetry and asymmetry to create balance in a piece. Designing prints and swimwear patterns is almost like creating a beautiful visual rhythm.

Two girls laughing and talking during a modelling shoot on the beach. One is the model and the other is a stylist.

What inspires you first. The fabric, the design, or a concept?

I think these three elements inspire me equally but not always in the same order. My process changes with each collection and each individual style. All three elements come together to dictate the overall finish of a style. My earlier collections were perhaps more inspired by print design and driven by concept, but I have recently fallen back in love with fabric, texture and accessories. I am currently working on a collection that pushes the boundaries a little more in terms of fabric choice for swimwear, which is both exciting and challenging.

As a swimwear designer, what do you believe is the greatest challenge?

An interesting question! For me the greatest challenge is using restraint and limiting my collections to a smaller number of styles. I feel that swimwear is very personal; each woman has her own preferred fit and style. I would like to be able to create something for everyone and would keep on designing and adding if I could, but budget and time restrictions make this impossible so I must stick to a deadline and target.

What do you find is the most comfortable style for women, or does this vary?

I have found that there is not one ‘particular’ comfortable style for women. It differs hugely; it is such a personal preference. What one woman feels amazing in another wouldn’t consider wearing and visa versa. I also think that the print and colourway of a style plays a big role in making a woman feel comfortable and fabulous in a particular design. All female figures are gorgeous and a woman that feels confident from within shines. I believe we need to stop worrying about what everyone around us thinks and dress the way we like to dress; you only live in this body once, so wear what makes you smile!

Swimwear model lying on the beach facing the photographer with blue sky and blue ocean behind her wearing a blue and red and white bikini. Her hair is wet and she is smiling.

I am also a lover of the one-piece! It is comfortable, classy, and stays in place! What do you see as the benefits?

YES – I am also completely in love with the one-piece and for all the same reasons! A well designed one-piece compliments the female frame beautifully, and you know I also feel that it can be incredibly sexy, in an understated, sophisticated way. A statement one-piece is also extremely versatile. You can team it with a pair of cut ofdenim shorts and kicks for a cute, grungy day of fun in the sun or a gorgeous pair of skinnies and heels for a night on the town.

Are all of your swimsuits lined? How important do you believe this is in the comfort and longevity of the item?

YES! All of our swimsuits are lined with beautiful milky silk lining. It is so important for comfort and longevity. Lining must be just as luxurious and soft as the outer shell fabric as this is what sits against the skin. It also gives a swimsuit that extra substance and prevents a see-through cossie – I think we have all experienced the dreaded moment on a crowded beach when you realize that your unlined swimsuit is see-through! Mine happened in the Christmas holidays at Avoca beach when I was thirteen! I still remember that lime green sparkly bikini, and its one and only outing – ha ha ha!

How do you arrive at conceptual ideas for a swimwear range?

I love to take inspiration from all sorts of sources: visual stimulation, feelings and moods, as well as philosophies, concepts and historical context. I often arrive at ideas after sessions of deep thought or sometimes a moment or a dream will spark something in my imagination. I then research this topic and develop it into a story. I also like to work backwards sometimes. When my mind is too busy and needs quietening, sometimes I like to just start drawing and let the motifs, shapes and colours take their own direction and then apply a concept once the design has come together. When I was freelancing, I would generate these ideas quite quickly as you have deadlines and sometimes client briefs. The process can take you a little longer when you are working on your own collection, as there is always that critical inner voice that makes you re-evaluate along the way. I ultimately like each style to tell its own story, but also sit within a conceptual and/or visual collection.

How important is exposure on the runway for a swimwear designer?

Exposure on the runway is extremely important for a swimwear designer. People need to see how swimwear fits the body when in motion. Swimwear is also sexy, exciting, exotic and reminds us of time spent playing and relaxing. The runway creates a feeling of excitement; it is a spectacle and stimulates the senses – this is how swimwear should be seen!

Model standing on the sand with the waves behind her for a swimwear shoot. Her hands are above her head and she is modelling a white bikini top with coloured bikini bottoms.

Model | Creative Director | Eva Czarnocka

Have you accessed the overseas market yet?

Yes. The LunarSand ‘Felix the Cat’ range was launched on the September 1 and is available internationally in the USA, Korea, Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore. I would love to start exploring the possibilities of introducing the LunarSand label as a whole to an international market.

I absolutely LOVE your “Felix The Cat” range! Can we expect more gorgeous capsule collections from you?

Thank you so much! The “Felix the Cat” range was an absolute treat to work on. I grew up loving Felix – such a groovy, iconic character. I was thrilled to be invited by DreamWorks to design this collection. Capsule collections and collaborations are my passion! This is what gets me excited – creative freedom, experimentation and a great team of people who inspire and support each other. I would ultimately love to create at least one capsule collection along with the core LunarSand styles each season.

I noticed that you also create towels and sarongs in the same fabrics as your swimwear. Do you always create an entire story?

I don’t always create an entire look – but this is something that I would like to move towards. I love seeing a complete look and story brought to life! I have also found that clients love having the option of working in extra accessories that compliment their chosen swimsuit. I am in the process of designing a fabulous wide leg pant for next season’s collection.

Girl sitting cross legged in a modelling shoot wearing a black and white high waisted bikini with her arms up above her head. She is looking directly at the camera.

How difficult do you believe it is to be successful in the Australian fashion industry?

Interesting question! I believe that you have to work really hard to be successful in the Australian Fashion Industry. You have to take rejections on the chin, but also be willing to seek and take advice. Fashion is subjective; what one person loves another dislikes, but I also think that it’s important to have the backing of the industry and really encourage each other to create great things.

Amen!

If you could change anything about our current industry what would it be?

I think that the current Australian fashion industry is in a state of change – the world as a whole is in a state of flux. I believe we may be about to witness some big changes. It would be great for Australian designers to have the tools and means to secure more of the international market. And I am excited to see new innovation and a revitalized industry that gets behind its emerging designers and showcase them to the world.

Have you felt supported by this industry, or to date, alone in your quest?

LunarSand is still a relatively young label and these early years are the toughest to slog through. I have met some amazing people in this last year who have given me incredible opportunities and the support I need to keep going and creating. I think I still have a hard road ahead of me but am full of passion and drive. In order to grow and evolve as a label and designer you do need industry support and guidance and I would love to see more.

Is consistent editorial coverage an important part of your development as a designer?

Yes I do think that consistent and reliable editorial coverage is invaluable as part of a designer’s development. It allows you to build your label and present it to your clients, helping them to become familiar with the labels direction, aesthetic and vision.

Girl standing in a modelling shoot wearing a black and white one piece costume with her hands up holding her hair away from her face.

How has your textile background helped you with LunarSand?

It has helped enormously. A background in textiles has meant that I have been able to develop the skills to create both the print and pattern for each style in all the LunarSand collections. The dual experience of studying and working within the textiles and design industry has helped prepare me for this adventure. I have made many mistakes along the way but this allows me to adapt and correct quickly.

Where can one buy your collections?

Our whole collection is available online at LunarSand.

We are also stocked at SMFA Gallery | Knox St, Double Bay, Sydney and The Design Residency | Oxford St, Darlinghurst, Sydney.

The LunarSand ‘Felix the Cat’ collection is also available through The First Thread.

The world needs more of LunarSand! Can we hope to see you at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week next year?

Thank you! Yes, I would absolutely love to show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia. I am working on next years collection as we speak! We have something very special up our sleeves and MBFWA would be the perfect place to reveal our secret! A collaboration would be incredible; I think 2017 is our year!

Totally!

When you are shooting a new collection, what do you look for in terms of location?

Researching and choosing a location for a shoot is one of my favorite parts of the process. I look for a number of things. Firstly the location must compliment and elevate the creative vision and feel of the collection. I look at the variety and angles that can be achieved – a really varied landscape that can be accessed and utilised without having to travel from one place to the other. I like to look at the big picture and think about capturing shots that take advantage of the stunning natural landscape and textures to create drama – cliffs, rock faces, breaking waves. I would love to push the boundaries further with future collections and start looking at interesting and quirky locations that tell fascinating stories. I have always loved the work of Patrick Russell and the scenes that he created in the 1970’s. He captured down to earth Australian women in casual locations, but added such an element of glamour. This juxtaposition of glamour and the casual Australian spirit creates excitement, intrigue and attitude.

What Australian fashion designers and swimwear designers do you most admire? And, overseas?

I admire so many! I would have to say Romance Was Born – I love what they do, such creativity and vision. Camilla, has such a stunning aesthetic. We Are Handsome. They have such a powerful and unique style and Valentino is to die for!

What is your greatest dream?

Oh my greatest dream – that is a hard one. I have lots of little dreams, which seem to be ever changing and evolving. But I guess my greatest dream is to be in a position where I can continue to create on a larger scale. I would also like to align this creative vision with making a small difference for better in the world. Travelling the world, meeting and working with inspiring people, growing as a designer and breathing in all that the universe has to offer.

Model lying on a towel smiling up at the photographer for a swimwear shoot. She is wearing a blue floral bikini with matching towel.

As a mother, and a wife, how difficult has it been to maintain the success of your label?

It can be challenging at times to say the least; we definitely need more hours in the day but like everyone, we have had to find a groove that works for us. My children are still quite young; Atticus is six and Phoenix has just turned four months so I am working interesting hours. I have always been a night owl, however the last couple of months have given this a whole new meaning. I am lucky in that I have a very supportive husband and family. It’s good fun, our kids are a big part of what I do; our house is a circus: kids toys, half finished artwork, swimwear, plants and mannequins everywhere – organised chaos!

Where would you like to see yourself in five years from now?

LunarSand … well established and loved in the Australian market place and making a big splash on the international scene. I would like to think that we will be working with an exceptional team of dynamic people. I would love to branch out into mens and childrens swimwear and work on pushing creative boundaries.

Do you believe in the power of fashion collaborations?

Absolutely! Artistic magic is achieved when a group of people come together and pool their individual strengths to work towards a common vision. It also gives you the chance to work on interesting projects that may be a little left of field. I’ll never forget Vogue, March 2014. This particular shoot featured Mia Wasikowska and was a collaboration between Jillian Davison, Australian artist Del Kathryn Barton, Emma Summerton and Alice Babidge; the outcome was spectacular, the images have a beautiful ethereal mood with a bold and dramatic undertone! It would be a dream to be involved in something like this.

Model standing in front of an ocean pool wearing a one piece blue swimsuit with Felix the Cat on the front. The swimsuit has lacing detail at the front.

When do you see yourself breaking into the international swimwear market?

As mentioned above, the LunarSand ‘Felix the Cat’ range was launched on the first of September and is available internationally in the USA, Korea, Japan, Hong Kong and Singapore, which is fantastic, really exciting and a wonderful opportunity. I would love to start exploring the possibilities of introducing the LunarSand label as a whole to an international market in the next one or two years.

Summer is upon us! What style do you believe is trending this year?

Yes!!! It is finally here, those warm evenings and days full of sunshine do wonders for the soul. There are clear trends each year, but what I love about swimwear is that each designer/label stamps their own signature twist on a trend. I definitely like to be aware of trend and predictions, but I make an effort to ensure that they don’t confine me as this can take over your creative process. However I do believe that side cut-outs are absolutely trending. Thin, strappy ties/details are a favorite this year and the high cut bottom with cheekier coverage will be big.

Until next time,

Jade xx

Featured Image

Shop LunarSand for Summer 2016!

Contact LunaSand

Say Hello to Ruby!

Follow LunarSand

LunarSand Instagram | LunarSand Facebook |

Support Ruby’s Charity

Purchase the LunarSand ‘Sporty Swag” drawstring bag perfect for the beach or the gym. 100% of the proceeds go to BeyondBlue.

Shop Sporty Swag

Until next time,

Jade xx

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Events, Interview, Millinery, Spring Racing Carnival

The Dress Circle

November 21

Five national competitors for the Victorian Spring Racing Carnival. Alice Bright, Courtney Moore, Inessa McIntyre, Regina Thei, Ashleigh Jane, all sitting under a tree.

Alice Bright standing in a white lace dress, white clutch and matching white hat.

Alice Bright | Fashionista On the Field | 2016 | Photography | Ryan Pike

I’m feeling very lucky as I feel I am living some of my dreams right now.

Alice Bright

This year at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, I met a stunning, tall, gorgeous girl with a beautiful, welcoming smile. I initially greeted her because I admired her dress from afar, and made a bee line to her to compliment her on her standout appearance.

As an aside, I always try to do this when I see women who are beautifully dressed anywhere, as I have always seen great importance in uplifting each other in any way we can.

Anyhow, as we started chatting, the gorgeous young woman, who told me her name was Alice surprised me by telling me she was not a fashion designer. Why was I surprised you might ask? Well, because I was at Fashion Week. Right? That’s usually where you find them. Alice told me she had made the dress she was wearing which was drop dead gorgeous, and that she made all her dresses for events. What events I asked?

Racing Carnivals.

Over the course of the year, a Myer, Fashions on the Field winner is selected from each state in Australia. During the Melbourne Cup Carnival, a Myer Fashion on the Field winner is selected from literally hundreds of participants, on Melbourne Cup Day, Derby Day, and Oaks Day. The winner becomes the official Victorian representative and then competes for the national crown.

Alice was Tasmania’s winner in February 2016 at The Hobart Cup.

All of the girls who are winners in their own states compete against one another to become the national winner of Myer’s Fashions on the Field, which is celebrated every year on Crown Oaks Day. This is the final day, at least for the fashionistas, during the Melbourne Cup Carnival at Flemington.

The finalists this year were Alice Bright (Tas), Courtney Moore (SA), Ashleigh Ridgeway (WA), Gracyn Marsterson (VIC), Regina Thei (NSW) and Inessa McIntyre (QLD). First place went to Courtney Moore, second place to Gracyn Marsterson, and third place to Alice Bright.

Alice Bright is a woman blessed with the perfect surname. She indeed has the “brightest” of futures, which will gloriously match her friendly smile.

Of course, being the insatiable fashionista that I am, I wait with great anticipation for the “Alice Bright” fashion label … another story, for another day.

For now let’s focus on her most recent amazingness.

Here is her story …

Enjoy xx

Congratulations! On your recent successes! How did you first come to be involved with Myer Fashions on the Field?

Thank you so much, it was such an amazing experience and I’m feeling very honoured to have received third place in the national final of Myer Fashions on the Field at Flemington Racecourse.

I started entering Fashions on the Field events when I lived in Launceston, Tasmania back in 2007. My first success came with second place in the Launceston Cup, Fashions on the Field.

This was the first outfit I designed and made to enter Fashions on the Field and looking back, a catalyst for why I am as passionate as am now. I had a little break from 2007 – 2011 and my second moment of significance came when I finished in the top 10 in Myer FOTF on Derby Day 2012. This was a very special moment for me as I designed and made this dress & headpiece with my mum. Similar to my first experience this success gave me the motivation I needed to keep designing and keep entering Myer FOTF.

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Fashion Designer, Global Fashion Industry, Interview

Frederick Jenkyn

September 26

As all of my devoted followers already know, earlier this year, I had the pleasure of perusing on mass, the breathtaking young smorgasbord of talent that Australia serves up each and every year at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week. After the week long event, which is the highlight of the years for all Australian fashion devotees, I methodically work my way through the incredible mix of entrepreneurial youth, offering them the opportunity to publish an affordable and effective public relations interview to promote their names and their emerging brands.

Frederick Jenkyns collection was outstanding. I met him the very day of the unveiling of his collection, but am bringing you this interview after corresponding with him in London, his new place of residence.

As I am sure you are aware, and if you are not, please consider this.

Our emerging designers are quite literally our fashion future. They represent the group of people who will lead us strongly, both locally and internationally, in the ethical and sustainable production of our beloved fashion industry. Young people such as Frederick will most likely be the names behind your choice of dressing and the other interiors of our design lives for decades to come. It is essential that we support them, read about them, buy their product and offer them our gratitude and encouragement.

Please remember to share the love.

Australian fashion is depending on you …

Meet Frederick Jenkyn.

In five years? I want to have my own studio with pattern makers/design assistants. A machinist and a social media/online manager.

Rolls and rolls of fabrics and a stock room filled to the brim.

I would like to think I’ll be complaining about needing more space. But then I will think, I need to pay for the embroidery for next season so it’s not a good time to upgrade.

I will only wear black. In case someone visits the studio and I won’t look a mess.

And in the bottom draw of my desk, that looks like a filing draw, I’ll keep some throw rugs for the “before show” all-nighters.

Frederick Jenkyn

Here is Frederick Jenkyn’s story so far …

Frederick Jenkyn as a brand emphasises wearable innovation through unconventional textiles and hand crafted detailing traversing the borderline between couture extravagance and everyday wearability.

Frederick Jenkyn

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Global Fashion Industry, Photography

Lights. Cameras. Heaven.

June 28

Bill Cunningham, New York photographer. Passed away at age 87 years after a stroke.

“The problem is I’m not a good photographer. To be perfectly honest, I’m too shy. Not aggressive enough. Well, I’m not aggressive at all. I just loved to see wonderfully dressed women, and I still do. That’s all there is to it.”

– Bill Cunningham

This morning, as I drank my morning coffee and dreamily looked out the window, my eyes rested on a postcard sitting near me. The title was, “The King Is Dead”.

It is not often that I am totally affected by the passing of someone whom I have never met, spoken to, or even seen in person.

But this time was different.

Saturday, June 25 2016 was a sad day for the global fashion industry.

I woke that morning, Sydney time, with a heavy heart, to find that the iconic Bill Cunningham, the famous bicycle pedalling street photographer, and dedicated columnist for the New York Times, will no longer be seen in mid-town New York capturing his special version of visual fashion delights.

Bill has crossed over, and is now travelling on a runway of a different kind.

Bill Cunningham was special. Eccentric. Dedicated. One of a Kind. And. He Will Be So Missed.

It has literally taken me days to comprehend that he is gone. At least from my current world.

And so this post is dedicated to Bill.

A man I never met, but a man that I know has affected so many lives with his work. As I write these words I realise what an incredible thing that is. To actually be such a contributory pillar of artistic genius that causes fashion lovers across the world to mourn his passing.

Bill is someone that I would have loved to have met, even briefly. For whatever reason, that was not to be. But it actually doesn’t matter because I hold such gratitude for the contribution he has made to my life. And to my own passion for fashion.

And there is that word again. Contribution. Ahh yes! That word has been spoken about a lot lately, post Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, Sydney 2016.

Contribution.
Continue Reading…

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Fashion Designer, Interview, MBFWA

The new VANguard … Jessica VAN

June 22

A model walks the runway in a design by Jessica Van at the The Innovators: Fashion Design Studio show at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Resort 17 Collections at Carriageworks on May 20, 2016 in Sydney, Australia. (Photo by Stefan Gosatti/Getty Images)

Mercedes Benz Fashion Week 2016 was really no different to me than it was last year in a general sense. I always love every minute of it.

If there is one, I am “the” tragic fashion week attendee.

This week is one where I cover all fashion designers, established or emerging, international and local. For those of you who know me my greatest love and the fire that drives the passion in my fashion belly, is that of the emerging designer.

This year, my heart beat faster than usual in the frow. Why you ask? Because of the person who happens to be the subject of this editorial.

One Miss Jessica Van.

It took precisely five minutes of my life to view the very first Jessica Van collection. An even shorter moment to recognise that I had just witnessed the work of a young designer, and currently relatively unknown designer, who I believe, is headed for the greatest of success. Words cannot describe how much I loved this collection.

I can hear you asking why?

Because sometimes, you just know.

You see an extraordinary talent and the beginnings of something huge and untapped, wrapped up in fabrication of the designs which parade in front of you on the runway.

Jessica is young, inexperienced, and understandably in awe of a cut throat, competitive, and saturated industry.

She is also genius, dedicated, passionate, humble, and possibly one of the best young designers I have ever seen. She is full of hope and blessed with a dose of the smarts. She sees her designs as wearable art, and indeed they are. She understands the road she is about to travel and so do I.

She is, I believe a designer to watch, because if I am right, I think we will be seeing her name up in lights. And soon.

Here is her story.

Jade xx

Australian Fashion Industry, Editorial, Fashion Designer, Interview, MBFWA

Monster Alphabets

June 8

Every year at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, which this year has just come to a close, I do a series of interviews about Australia’s emerging fashion designers.

An important part of my week, and perhaps my greatest passion, is to review. to meet, and to bolster, the amazing collections of these designers who are newly graduated or who are nursing their young, wonderful labels through the tender years of their fashion infancy.

This year was no different. A broad array of talented and passionate individuals whose collections graced the Carriageworks runways at MBFWA 2016.

The life of an emerging designer is a tenuous one, fraught with complex decision making, all weighing on the scales of balance combining creativity and commercialism. In a world of fast fashion, and the universal hub of fashion manufacturing China, it is no wonder that these designers feel unloved by us all at times, trying to carve out their niche in the small consumer base of Australian fashion lovers down under.

I do my absolute best to make people aware of how dire our industry will become if we continue to ignore the importance of supporting our own. My thoughts are not revolutionary, but I am completely devoted to my local designers and their hopes and dreams. My wish is that you are too.

So, may I leave you with this thought?

The next time you walk into Zara, TopShop or H&M think about the young Australian designers, who have studied for years, working second jobs just to support their chosen careers.

They need us. All of Us. Me. And. You. To buy their product.

Their emerging labels need to find a permanent lodging in our heads, as the “Go To” for our next potential fashion fix. That is. If we still value the Australian fashion industry, which I am sure you do!

Meet Sarah Watanabe, the name behind Monster Alphabets, yet another of Perth’s fashion talents …

For an independent label like Monster Alphabets, we try put an emphasis on slow fashion and an ethical way of producing. This means that we do not produce big quantities or a large number of styles. We want our customers to value our clothes and treat them as investment pieces. Social media speeds up the process and everyone wants new images of new products on a daily basis. This is not sustainable and works against small labels.

I believe that you and your sister started “Monster Alphabets”. How did this eventuate?

I was in between jobs in the latter half of 2011 and I saw a gap in the market for black clothes that expressed a unique twist with modern design.

As the label grew I dragged my sister Kacey into the business. She assists on the business side of the label. She does the bookkeeping and basically makes sure I don’t do anything stupid.

I love the name. Where did the inspiration for the name come from?

Kacey briefly studied art at St Martins College in London. One of the projects she produced was called Monster Alphabets.

It was the study of implementing different characteristics and personality to each letter of the alphabet. I liked the curious concept of the name and decided to steal it.

What is the philosophy behind your label?

Jenga. Design is like playing a game of Jenga. How many elements can you eliminate before it crumbles. Less IS sometimes more.

You talk about the “Japanese Design Pysche”. Could you please explain this further?

It’s the subtleness in the detail. The alternate expression of beauty while not exposing too much skin.

What is the inspiration behind your label? As an architecture student, does this influence your garments and collections strongly?

I actually graduated from my architecture degree and worked full time before switching to fashion.

The design principles that I learned during my architecture days are the same minimalistic approaches and ethos that I now apply to my designs.

Model | Anna | Photography | United Images | Sydney MBFWA 2016

As an emerging label, how difficult has it been for you to secure a position within other markets, such as the US?

I’ve only been active in Australia so I am not an international label yet but hopefully one day!

Who are the people from whom you take inspiration and most admire within your industry?

Diana Vreeland … her eccentric philosophy on fashion and life in general is so inspiring.

I am still looking for the Diana Vreeland of this generation.

Lol! Aren’t we all?

What do you love about the fashion industry in Perth?

The fashion industry in Perth is so small that we all know each other and are extremely supportive towards each other. There is nothing better than seeing a Perth face at events like MBFWA.

Do you see yourself living and/or working in the eastern states?

It is definitely something that I am asked about all the time.

With the digital proximity that is available to us now, I don’t think the geographical location is as crucial as it was before. I am bit of a cavewoman so even if I lived in New York, I would probably still stay at home 20 hours a day sewing up a storm in the basement … #getalife

What do you think of today’s street fashion?

I personally feel that social media has made such an impact on street fashion. My personal view is that girls want to stand out from the crowd – thus their focus is on creating an image that will outshine everyone else’s on Instagram and other social media outlets. The priority now is to stand out even if it means compromising on style.

What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers?

To accept the unpredictability of fashion. Sometimes things just doesn’t make sense in fashion. Just accept it and move on…

What is your advice to young women and the way they dress?

Be true to yourself. Wear something that makes you comfortable physically and mentally.

What influence do you think social media has had on our current fashion industry and do you think it is a positive or negative influence?

I think it has changed EVERYTHING from marketing strategy to the retail environment.

I think bringing any interest to fashion is always a good thing for the industry. However I think providing the social media influencers with too much power when it is not justified will eventually become a questionable reality.

Agreed!

For an independent label like Monster Alphabets, we try put an emphasis on slow fashion and an ethical way of producing. This means that we do not produce big quantities or a large number of styles. We want our customers to value our clothes and treat them as investment pieces. Social media speeds up the process and everyone wants new images of new products on a daily basis. This is not sustainable and works against small labels.

Agreed a million times over!

What is your favourite social media platform?

Instagram. As a fashion designer, visual images is our currency.

What age bracket do you design for?

It’s not so much the age bracket, but I do tend to design for professional ladies who have a strong interest in the arts.

What do you think of the phenomenon of fast fashion and how has it affected you as a local designer?

It has crippled my label but it has also motivated us to create designs that cannot be recreated by the fast fashion business model.

Wonderful! When you refuse to join them …

Do you think fashion in Australia differs greatly to other countries?

Yes. I think ultimately we design clothes to suit the climate we live in. I also think that the climate dictates a lot of the cultural aspects too. In Australia, we have beautiful sunny weather and gorgeous beaches. It is inevitable that we design garments that celebrate and accentuate this gift from Mother Nature.

When your designs are photographed how do you like to see them represented and on whom?

I think once the garment is handed over to the wearer, I enjoy seeing how they style them.

Do you rely on fashion bloggers to spread the word about your label and how serious an effect do you think they have had on our industry?

My label belongs to a very small niche. Not a lot of bloggers endorse my dark aesthetics.

I think bloggers have been a major catalyst in this social media phenomenon.

Sometimes I feel like there is no censorship and at times I am wary about the opinions that are broadcasted on the web.

Blogging is not a protected profession so when they upload misleading information or weak content which can defame people, I find it very upsetting.

Why do you think fashion bloggers often look the same at events?

Wow I thought it was just me that noticed! Ahhahaha!!!

Nope!

I think this could be due to the necessity to attract more and more people? I ‘m really not sure. It’s really unfamiliar territory for me. I have never been the popular kid at school. I was always the weird one who avoided the spotlight. This desire to be so loved and get as many “likes” as possible is a very foreign concept to me. Perhaps that is the reason why I have such modest number of followers haha!!!

Well. I could argue that one’s contribution to the industry is more important than one’s following …

Do you feel the industry needs to have a set of slightly older fashion bloggers to create a wider and broader space for a diverse representation of labels?

ABSOUTELY.

Every human needs to wear clothes to protect themselves from the weather. It is a primary necessity to wear clothes for human survival. Style is what makes this process fun. I strongly agree that there is a desperate need for more diversity in fashion. My mother has a blog because she felt like there was a gap in the blogger world for older people.

Her idol is Iris Apfel.

Mine too!

Do you think our obsession with youth and only directing fashion to the very young has created a restricted playground for designers at large?

No, not for my aesthetics.

Perhaps it would if I was running a label that solely relied on social media to measure success. If the interested in a label is largely generated by the power of the Instagram shock factor, then this would apply as only girls of a certain age can pull off the “half naked”, “sheer- sequinned” bodysuit … top … dress …nipple cover …

How hard have you found it to show your collections and make connections overseas?

I do get invited to take part in overseas events but as an independent fashion label, it would be irresponsible of me to do so when I am not ready to fund a bigger production line in keeping with greater demand.

Model | Bianca IMG | Photography | Getty Images | Sydney MBFWA 2016

Do you feel that the industry as a whole helps you to succeed?

The panelists of Project Nextgen were all very important members of the fashion industry. The fact that they saw something in a small label like mine with such a small social media following restored my faith in the industry.

How could you be better supported?

I think by educating people on the importance of shopping local would help alleviate the pressure that is experienced in the industry.

I think at the end of the day, if our business flourishes in Australia, we are one step closer towards international success.

Don’t we all want to see more Australian labels gracing the catwalks of Paris, New York and Milan?

Yes. Yes. And Yes. We certainly do!!!

What designers do you love in Australia? Overseas?

I am a big fan of TOME. Their minimalistic approach to design is breathtaking. Yohji Yamamoto is my idol. He studied at Bunka as well so our teachers would often use his garments to demonstrate pattern making skills.

Who do you think dresses the best, men or women?

Men. There is less to choose from so less chances of getting it wrong.

If you could change anything about what’s trending right now, what would that be?

Narcissism ..

Me too! Have you read my recent article NarcisSista Fashionista???

What do you think about the prevalence of tattooes? Piercings?

I don’t mind them at all.

Do you think they had their day?

Tattoos and piercings? I think the phenomenon that was attached to it, ie. the taboo side of it, is gone. As my friend Jono once said, having “NO tattoo is the NEW tattoo”.

If we were speaking about fashion today, do you think we are becoming more modest or less so in our self expression?

I think modesty is very rare when we talk about the fashion of today. I think the danger is when the clothes end up wearing you, rather than you wearing the clothes.

Why do you think some designers have gone broke in recent times?

I think it is a combination of the difficult retail environment as well as the impact that social media has had. The speed at which we are expected to develop new collections is ridiculous and just not financially viable.

What advice would you give someone moving into fashion design?

Develop a very thick skin. Get used to hearing “no” all the time.

When you hear an emerging designer, with a full heart, and exceptional talent, describing the pursuit of their passion in this way, something needs to change. And. Fast.

A picture of Sarah Watanabe, designer of Monster Alphabets from Perth, standing at the foot of the runway, dressed in a black dress and black boots, after her show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Sydney 2016 in Sydney.

Monster Alphabets | Designer | Sarah Watanabe | St George NextGen | MBFWA 2016

How do you cope with the commercial aspects of your design trade?

The most challenging thing is finding the balance between design that is still commercial enough that it will sell and bring an income while maintaining the Monster Alphabets aesthetics. I don’t want to produce watered-down designs just so I can make a sale. This is not the reason I started the label. Kacey and I sit down every week to balance the books and see where we are and strategise. This part of the business is just as important, if not more important than the other, more fun aspects.

Who are your favourite bloggers?

I am really bad at this kind of stuff. I am not really familiar with many of them. I do like whiteandcapsule.com however. I think her style is very unique and so refreshing!

How important is the role of a stylist to a fashion designer?

I enjoy how the stylists can challenge the way we see clothes. At times I see my garments styled with items that I never thought would match, but when put together it works!

How important is runway exposure when offering a new collection?

It helps to draw attention. In a setting like MBFWA a lot of the heavy weight industry members are present, together with key national buyers. It is the perfect opportunity to present a range.

What do you feel the fashion industry needs to offer in Australia which it is not?

Diversity.

What are you most looking forward to this year, showing at MBFWA 2016?

Being selected to show at MBFWA was a huge step for my label.

Until next time,

Jade xx

Meet Monster Alphabets | Monster Alphabets Facebook | Monster Alphabets Instagram |

Accreditations |

Assistant | Model | Bailey Jones | Bailey Jones Instagram

Mother and Father PR

Thanks To |

TheFashionSpotOfficial | Zara Wong | Perth Fashion Festival |