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Australian Fashion Industry, Interview, Melbourne Fashion Festival, Men

Article. by Courtney Holm

March 9

Model standing in a area of earth moving soil in casual sports luxe attire.

I have been talking recently about the rising talent of some emerging menswear designers in Australia. They are the new breed of emerging talent, and I feel the shift of greatness realigning our current industry. At least as we know it. It feels like I have stepped on a veritable goldmine of dynamic, enthusiastic, talented, passionate and downright savvy artists who have decided that the business of dressing men, needs … well, addressing.

Quite literally.

And how lucky are we that they seem to sitting right in our backyard.

Downunder.

Melbourne actually.

Ready for the upcoming fashion festival in Melbourne, VAMFF.

The spotlight for this article, is Courtney Holm. The name behind the label known quite simply as Article.bch.

Courtney graduated with First Class Honours from the University of Technology Sydney and her debut at L’Oréal Melbourne Fashion Festival in 2013 led her to re-locate to Melbourne. It’s not hard to see why I loved interviewing Courtney, a young, dynamic, talented designer, who seems to have boundless energy. Not only is she putting a collection on the runway at VAMFF in a couple of days, she also got married a couple of weeks ago. And I thought I was busy!

She is described by NJAL (Not Just A Label) as “the designer and director of sports-luxe Australian menswear label”, and that her “label is distinct for its assimilation of pop-culture street styling, elemental sportswear and tailoring details”, which is “designed and hand produced in Melbourne, injecting a fresh equilibrium of functional, high-end fashion into a niche menswear market”. And, “her use of varied materials, such as polyurethane plastics, luxury knits, sportswear and hard-wearing materials with quality cottons, silks and wool give each piece inner softness with an overriding masculine exterior. The amalgamation of high fashion detailing with sportswear and street style makes a bold statement while the prevalence of functionality, style and fit ensure a wearable outcome for a discerning customer”.

Perhaps I should start this piece by sharing what I thought was a wonderful piece of her wisdom.

Support other brands by being a nice human and treating your fellow colleagues with respect, share contacts with them and collaborate.

I firmly believe in supporting local industries. As long as we have a Melbourne manufacturing industry and I am a part of the Melbourne community, I will support it.

Firstly, I LOVE your menswear label. What inspired you to design for men?

ABCH

Thanks Jade. I started the menswear journey at university. I was studying fashion design at UTS which is primarily targeted at teaching womenswear design. In my third year we did a menswear subject and everything kind of fell into place. I’d been struggling to find any satisfaction in womenswear design, but as soon as I began designing clothing for men, it felt right. I decided to major in menswear in my honours year. From there, I just knew that was what I was good at and I wanted to pursue it. I started my label a few years later after working with some amazing designers such as Romance Was Born and Strateas Carlucci.

Why sports-luxe, and what is the finer definition of this term in your view?

ABCH

I have been championing this style since before I graduated but for Article. by Courtney Holm, sport-luxe is not just a catchy phrase. It’s a timeless way of styling and designing. I design high-end fashion, but it is heavily influenced by the things in my world. One of those things is health and fitness and a love for the comforts and technicality of sportswear, such as technical fibres, compression panelling, elasticated waistbands, pullovers and drawstrings. I weave these things into high fashion garments to make them the ultimate wearable goods. To me, this term means a sense of quality and durability.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

Article. by Courtney Holm

I believe the production of your garments is in Melbourne … has that been challenging for you to maintain?

ABCH

Yes, all my goods, apart from a t-shirt which is manufactured in Sydney, is produced in Melbourne. It is definitely a challenge, especially for keeping costs down. That is the hardest thing. I firmly believe in supporting local industries. As long as we have a Melbourne manufacturing industry and I am a part of the Melbourne community, I will support it. I feel sad that so many industries are seeing manufacturing go offshore, fashion included. I believe that soon there will be a return to local manufacturing and buying, but if we lose all our skills here in the meantime, it won’t be good news for our fashion labels in the future.

What do you see as the main challenges for an emerging designer in Australia?

ABCH

The main challenges I have faced are finding the right stockists for my niche non-traditional menswear market. Also, Australia has so many amazing designers, but often they are forced to go overseas and prove themselves offshore before they are fully embraced by our country. I find this annoying if anything. It’s also a challenge when starting a fashion business if you don’t have a lot of capital upfront, you have to wear so many hats for a long time until the business is profitable.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

Do you believe that the Australian fashion industry as a whole is supportive of emerging designers?

ABCH

I believe that in Melbourne there is more support for emerging designers than in other cities in Australia. I have lived in both Brisbane and Sydney, but the support in the Melbourne community has been outstanding in comparison. I still think we have such a long way to go if we compare ourselves to what other countries do to support their emerging designers, including fashion business specific grants, championing local manufacturing, industry contacts and mentoring. Fashion is a massive industry with huge potential in Australia, but often fashion businesses are not treated with the same respect.

If you could change three things about the support structure of our current industry, what would they be?

ABCH

More pathways to funding/investors for fashion businesses
More support from Australian media/PR agencies for emerging designers
Initiatives that reward and champion local manufacturing. Reinvent “Made in Australia”. This should be something to be proud of.

Do you think it is more difficult to design for men than women?

ABCH

No. I find designing for men much more satisfactory and it comes more naturally to me.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

Is the market of male consumers easier to please on the whole, or do you think it is more challenging than the womenswear market?

ABCH

I think it is more challenging in Australia, as men dress much more conservatively. What you see is really either formal/corporate or casual street/surf wear. It’s a small market of men who are truly “fashionable” in this country, however it is growing! Overseas the market is larger, but the competition is greater.

What is your view of the importance of showing your collections on the runway?

ABCH

I think it is so important to show the world that Article. by Courtney Holm is not going anywhere.

We are here to stay, and are a reputable brand who intends to grow! I think it’s important to keep being involved in runway shows as at this stage, it’s the best way to get your collection “out there” and I am using this runway to launch my latest collection which I am so excited to reveal on Thursday!

I understand you use a lot of technical fabrics. Could you please explain what this actually means and how these are fabrics produced?

ABCH

Technical fabrics utilise modern technology to create a fabric that is somehow enhanced or gives a greater performance than a woven or knitted natural fibre in the traditional sense is able to. I use coated waterproof fabrics and zippers, super lightweight membranes that weigh just over half an once per metre, ripstop fabrics that don’t tear under duress and compression fabrics that improve circulation. Mostly these fabrics are produced with technical yarns woven into the fabrics. Some are coated. Nanotechnology has allowed man-made fibres to be modified beyond what used to be perceived as cheap polyesters and the like. Now these materials are highly technical in their molecular makeup and refined for specific performance use in mind. It’s quite fascinating, especially when you start to mix these with natural fibres.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

What are the benefits of creating these fabrics?

ABCH

It’s the future!

Imagine a lightweight fabric that is as strong as armour? Or a material that releases smells, sounds or temperature changes? Imagine clothes that can change colour on their own to reflect your mood? The technology is already here, it’s just a matter or time before they are readily integrated into our clothing. Some things will be incredibly useful and powerful, other things will be purely for aesthetic and fun. The materials I use in my collections are just scratching the surface of what is possible.

Who would you describe as the Article. by Courtney Holm man?

ABCH

He’s a guy who loves to dress for himself. He doesn’t mind colour, cool fabrics or standing out. He is a creative and a thinker, he is into fitness, health and technology. However, ultimately he wants the clothes to feel amazing on his skin and last for a lifetime of use.

How do you believe the menswear market differs in Australia to international markets?

ABCH

I mentioned earlier that the Australian market is more conservative, I think there are a greater number of guys overseas dressing to stand out and to make their own statement. I think in Australia, these statements are made by wearing socks with suit pants, or having one unique accessory. We are much more conservative and slower on the uptake of trends. It’s gradually changing and I do see more guys dressing with some interesting ideas especially as new menswear labels pop up and gain momentum here.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

Do you see yourself growing and expanding to other markets and if so, where?

ABCH

Yes, my hit list is Korea, Hong Kong, Japan and London.

What is your view generally about ethical and sustainable fashion?

ABCH

I believe every fashion business has to make a choice about whether they will go for the cheapest option, or the more sustainable and ethical option. Sometimes these two things align, but often they don’t. Everyday choices towards wastage, how you treat people in and outside of your business and research about where your products come from and the people involved are what make you sustainable and ethical.

You can’t claim ignorance in our current climate, it’s just not good enough. We have all the resources at our fingertips, and it takes a lot of work and time to investigate the various options we have in sourcing, manufacturing and delivery but I believe that it’s essential to ensure our future.

Where does the inspiration for the designs on your fabrics come from?

ABCH

Various things that take my interest. Body parts, photos I have taken of my drape work, sketches and more. Usually it’s a very literal thing that I will manipulate over and over until I get an abstract result that I am visually excited by.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

Please tell me more about your love of pop culture, street styling, and elemental sportswear?

ABCH

I love sportswear, I am also a pilates instructor and personal trainer, so active clothing elements are always are part of my designs. I love styling. I have quite a knack for it and feel I can take the garments apart and reconstruct them in many different ways to achieve various looks. The street look is what I am aiming to promote through the label. Pop-culture icons have inspired me as I love the way an individual can champion a look and the two can become almost inseparable.

You describe your garments as ethical. What does this entail across the entire process of production?

ABCH

Minimise wastage in development and cutting.
Engaging manufacturers that are legal, treat their workers fairly and don’t outsource without your knowledge – this is much easier to do if you live in the same country you manufacture in!
Treat your employees well and fairly, this includes your sub-contractors and your interns.
Don’t claim ignorance. It’s really hard to know where everything comes from, especially fabrics. Keep searching and investigating all that goes into your brand and make everyday improvements.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

Do you love what you do?

ABCH

Yes.

What advice would you give to emerging designers? I recently read an article which claimed fashion design is a ‘false dream’. What do you think?

ABCH

It’s hard to say without reading the article personally. Fashion can seem glamorous and all, but it’s really a hard slog. I think people realise that the hard way a lot of the time. If you go to a good university, they should prepare you for that. In saying that, don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t do something or that it will never work. They might be right, but they might be wrong. Take all the feedback with a pinch of salt, and think critically of your own work.

Model standing in an urban setting under a bridge dressed in the sports-luxe wear and technical fabric inspired by pop and internet culture, and elemental street styling.

What do you envisage for the future of the Australian fashion industry?

ABCH

I envisage a return to local manufacturing and the revitalisation of our industry.

I’d love to see (or create) a hub for fashion designers to develop, grow and emerge into the world from the design studio space. A space which offered manufacturing, printing, knitting and dyeing capabilities and a place where designers are truly supported by the local government and media.

Where would you like to see yourself in five years from now?

ABCH

Running a financially lucrative business that is able to continue to pioneer new styles in menswear around the world while also supporting the local industry. Creating new jobs and helping to develop other emerging designers.

What are you most looking forward to in the showing of your collection at VAMFF?

ABCH

Hanging out with all the other amazing designers, seeing my clothes come down the catwalk for the first time and launching what will be our biggest year and collection yet!

Go Courtney! Label Ministry will be there cheering you on! Check out Article. bch!

Accreditations:

Design & Styling| Courtney Holm | Facebook | Twitter| Instagram

Photography | Brooke Holm | Facebook | Instagram

Creative Direction | Graphic Design: Instagram

HMUA | Chantal Lee | Chantal Lee

Model | Tom Brennan | Instagram

Pop Video Accreditations:

Design & Styling | Courtney Holm

Shot, Cut & Directed by | Noel Smyth

Music | Marcus Hollands | Instagram

Talent | James Kremers (Scene) | Instagram

Hair and Makeup | Martell Hunt

Until next time,

Jade xx

website_logo3.5

Australian Fashion Industry, Interview, Melbourne Fashion Festival, Men, VAMFF

Amxander The Great

March 3

Model standing in front of a red wall dressed completely in black but wearing a donkey brown jacket with hoodie.

In my opinion, Amxander is headed for the big time. The world at large awaits their obvious talent and next week, Melbourne, is their fashion oyster!

It is ramping up to that time of year again.

Melbourne. VAMFF. The fashion festival that spreads as far and wide as the city of Melbourne itself. The excitement is palpable and why wouldn’t it be? With so many designers descending upon Melbourne to show their collections on the runway, and many of whom, call Melbourne home.

I am particularly excited this year as I have always been a fan of designers who tackle the menswear side of things. I feel that menswear is a part of the market, particularly in the emerging sector, which historically and currently is significantly under represented, at least by local designers.

This year however, I am thrilled to say I will be watching with great anticipation as Jason Pang’s label, Amxander shows off! And show off they will.

Talent like this, I haven’t seen for some time. It’s wonderful to think that the dressing of the modern man is being catered for so beautifully, with the likes of ASSK, Article. by Courtney Holm, and of course the highlight of this article, Amxander. The main thing I love about this label is just simply it’s wearability. No fuss, manly, well tailored, nicely detailed, tasteful and well, I think pretty close to perfect.

It is a privilege for me to be able to write with such genuine enthusiasm about the talent of these young, upcoming, positive, talented, gracious, emerging designers. It is the red passion which fills my veins.

I just had to ask Mr Amxander himself, the questions that were burning a hole in my fashion week head before I wear myself out with my own excitement over the coming week in Melbourne …

I absolutely love your label. It has been a long time since I have seen such innovative, interesting, and most importantly wearable men’s fashion in Australia. Who is behind the AMXANDER label?

AMX

The label AMXANDER was formed from the ideas and experiences of a few close friends.

We all come from various design and design-related marketing backgrounds. Our business manager, Jake Chen, Art Director, Edmond Chua, and myself, Creative Director.

All of us joined together with the goal to bring a new light to the menswear market, which we found to be especially under-represented/under-developed in Australia.

You describe your label as ‘print focused’ design? Would you regard this the same as sublimation garments?

AMX

The idea of print should not be constricted to only being sublimations or digital applications. By print we mean creating a motif – a symbol. It may be through different textile applications, for example knitting, embossing, or embroidery. There are various ways to ‘create print’. This is the core idea behind our label and we try to think of new ways to communicate our symbols in new and innovative ways each season.

You have been described by NJAL (Not Just A Label) as ‘Black Sheep’ … ‘designers revolutionizing the industry and forging their own paths’. How do you see yourselves?

AMX

It truly is an honour for us as a young label to be given such credit. I see us as a small team of hardworking individuals who have a clear vision of what our take on a menswear brand should be. I am glad that we are still able to have that vision and keep our minds focused – relieving ourselves of the fads that revolves around this industry. We try to keep ourselves on the right track.

How would you describe the AMXANDER man? Who specifically is your demographic?

AMX

The AMXANDER guy is someone who understands and appreciates fashion in an understated manner; someone who would like to stand out from the crowd and exert their individuality from time to time, but also be cautious of not going overboard.

Do you intend to take your label overseas?

AMX

Taking the label overseas has always been an initial plan of ours. So far we have showcased in New York, London, Paris and also have a wider presence in Asia.

I particularly love your collection ‘Forage’, but I love the others too! How do achieve making each collection look so distinct?

AMX

Our main idea revolves around the fact that the menswear market doesn’t shift around trends as much as womenswear – as such, our collections are based on a ‘theme’ rather than being a seasonal inclusion.

You’ll notice that our collections all feature classic menswear silhouettes (the tee-shirt, sweatshirt, etc.) and each collection uses prints, textiles and other techniques to bring forth the theme that the collection is named after.

Each theme that we explore revolves around existing masculinity ‘myths’ and symbolism. For example, our first collection, Shatter, revolved around the primal man, contrasted against the digital revolution, and our second collection, Hounds, revolved around the classic hounds tooth motif – traditionally a symbol of wealth in the late 1800s.

Please define the term ‘Capsule Collection’

AMX

‘Capsule Collection’ to me is a sufficient sized range that a label puts together that represents a clear theme/concept.

It is also an appetizer for the core concept behind the brand and what it has to offer.

As you can see from our website, we’re currently offering our 5th collection’s capsule to communicate the core ideologies behind the collection via simple garments.

Where do you find the themes/names for each collection?

AMX

As with all ideas, these themes come from curiosity. We throw these ideas around, and sometimes we hit an idea that just resonates well for each of us.

I believe you worked for Mary Katrantzou in London. Wow! What did you love most about this experience?

AMX

She has always been an inspiration to me since my days in university. The best part was actually getting exposed to the fashion industry at an international level.

Hectic schedules, business meetings, fabrics you can only dream of creating, top models, London Fashion Week backstage – these are only a few a many things that I got to be a part of and I remember it all very fondly.

You say you wanted ‘to bring a breath of fresh air to the Australian menswear market’. I believe you have. How did you formulate your plan to bring this into being?

AMX

We have noticed that there has been a drastic shift in the once static high-end market that resulted in contemporary labels really making an impact on the fashion scene. What was especially interesting was that we found men wanted to escape the pencil pushing life, and express themselves as individuals. We wanted to create an avenue for this and thus created AMXANDER.

Where and how do you look for inspiration?

AMX

I usually articulate ideas from what I experience every day. I am a very ‘visual’ person. Random things capture my attention in day to day life – whether it is a well dressed stranger or things that I see on the media. I am not one who is fixated about where I draw my inspirations from; it is something that is ever changing.

How do you feel about the support levels within the Australian fashion industry?

AMX

It is gradually improving as more and more organizations realize the importance of their input in cultivating Australia’s next generation of fashion creatives.

Of course, it would be great to see large retailers take on emerging labels – it’s going to be a risk, but it could pay handsomely for the industry.

Do you believe that there is more support for Australian emerging designers overseas? If so, why?

AMX

I must admit that there is a much bigger platform outside of Australia; the market for fashion is just more responsive to interesting ideas. There is still a level of conservativeness here in Australia.

Do you believe that the creation of a successful menswear label is more difficult than women’s wear?

AMX

Women generally spend more time and effort deciding and putting together what they wear. So my answer would be yes.

It almost takes double the effort selling clothing to men as apposed to women – that’s just how it is – for now.

Do you believe that Australian men dress well?

AMX

I believe they actively care for their appearance but it can be quite monotonous – in a good way.

Most men seem to favor blue-collar dressing and/or what I call ‘slouch-chic’ (a combination of various loosely-cut garments, almost loungewear-like).

If you could offer Australian men advice on how to dress better, what would that be?

AMX

I might be a bit biased on this one but I’d obviously hope to see more men willing to tackle a wider range of textiles and colours.

Most of my male friends tend to say that they feel comfortable in t-shirts and chinos/jeans.

This is where a subtle pop of color or small applied details could separate one from the crowd without going overboard.

What is your opinion of the way Australians present themselves in general?

AMX

Australians are generally quite outspoken and can easily adapt to being in most foreign situations.

From experience, they definitely light up the room!

Your designs almost remind me of a media/visual arts graduate’s work. How have you taken your vision of patterns and transformed it to fabric?

AMX

We design as a team. Despite being in different areas of design, we all come from common arts backgrounds. (Sketching, Painting, Computer Aided Design etc.). This is a form of language that we communicate with. Together we figure out ways of executing our work in 3D context.

Where are your fabrics sourced?

AMX

It varies but most of the time it would be locally sourced in Australia or Asia.

Where are your garments made?

AMX

Some garments are made in-house. Otherwise, we work closely with our pattern makers (who have over 40 years experience) in Hong Kong.

Does the production of your garments require particular machinery?

AMX

It depends on the requirements of each season, but we do sometimes require particular machinery to create certain things outside of the basic industrial machinery.

What are the ultimate dreams of your label?

AMX

For me, I hope that AMXANDER can be a pioneer in the Australian menswear fashion scene.

We hope to be able to showcase to the world that there is a lot of creative talent down under. That we deserve the spotlight once in a while.

What is your view of the runway and do you believe it is an important vehicle for exposure?

AMX

I believe having put together a runway show is an important vehicle for exposure but it is not the ONLY way. Established labels invest a lot of time, money and effort into putting together runway presentations and this may not be a luxury that all upcoming designers can afford.

Today, even the biggest brands are testing non-conventional ways of presenting their line and most have been extremely successful.

Do you believe that much of your exposure is achieved through social media?

AMX

Social media has definitely played an important for us growing as an independent label.

I believe it is the most direct and efficient way to interact with our customers and they seem to react to it well.

How do you feel about the traditional roles of editorial?

AMX

Editorials have been an important segment for decades.

Traditional or non-traditional, the images we see on most blogs or fashion websites are in fact editorials. Whether it be a set of backstage photographs or snaps of a dolled-up model from someone’s iPhone, any images that have been stylised in one way or another is a form of editorial work – that’s how I see it.

How do you select working with particular stylists and creative teams?

AMX

We surround ourselves with people whom we feel comfortable with and who respect us for being creative individuals.

What are you most looking forward to in your involvement with VAMFF?

AMX

It is our first runway show with VAMFF and so far the pre-runway preparations have been very smooth.

We are definitely looking forward to meeting new people and get as much feedback as we can to further grow AMXANDER.

Until next time,

Jade xx

Accreditations:

Model: Greg Han & Benjamin Charles | Photography: Chen Chi & Vikk Shayen | Stylist: Jake Chen |

Men, Styling

One For the Boys

February 15

Featured Image: Suit & Tie by Jaclyn Auletta. Photo from Flickr.

You know, when I find myself in Sydney city these days, I am always eager to check out what people are wearing to work. I have just returned from New York where I have to say, by and large the working population have really got it together, at least in the sense of their wardrobes. I was there at the start of Winter and so naturally that meant that I saw the beautiful coats, scarfs, and boots which we all know are the perfect marriage.