Aurelio Costarella

I don’t subscribe to ‘FAST’ fashion or what I like to refer to as “landfill” fashion … cheap, disposal and anything but sustainable.

LM

What is the philosophy and inspiration behind your label?

AC

I am inspired by vintage finds, listening to their stories, letting the memories unfold. Legendary Hollywood starlets and random songs on my iTunes. I am driven by the design process, each thematic collection is an exploration that moves seamlessly from one season to the next.  I  focus on textile development, detailed cutting and quality craftsmanship.

With a distinctive handwriting that ranges from trademark delicate silk chiffon gowns, intricate handcrafted beadwork, embroidery and sharp tailored suits, the Aurelio Costarella brand is a luxurious offering of classic pieces with a contemporary edge.

This same philosophy is employed across all marketing and branding ideas, imagery and events.

LM

Who are the people from whom you take inspiration and whom do you most admire within your industry?

AC

The 1920’s was a revolutionary era for fashion and signalled a far more modern way of dressing. Women were no longer restrained by corsetry. The silhouette changed to allow a softer approach. The introduction of bold colours and embellishments allowed women far more flexibility, creativity and freedom in the way they dressed.  Garments became far more opulent and experimental thanks to the likes of designers such as Coco Chanel and Paul Poiret.

I have often drawn inspiration from this era. The individual styles of Josephine Baker, Tamara de Lempicka, Nancy Cunard and Lee Miller have influenced my work over the years.

LM

Who is the Aurelio Costarella woman?

AC

The Costarella woman is chic, bold, confident, discerning and design savvy. She appreciates and invests in quality, timeless pieces.

LM

How long have you been designing and what do you believe is your greatest achievement to date?

AC

When I was ten I ‘created’ a halter neck top on my Mum’s old Singer sewing machine for the girl next door. At nineteen I was creating ‘Buffalo Gal’ clothing while studying Architecture. At twenty I dropped out of university and opened my first store…the fashion landscape has changed phenomenally since I started out thirty two years ago. Showing at New York Fashion week was a huge achievement but the greatest one is that I have survived all these years in this industry. In 2013 we celebrated 30 years by having a retrospective exhibition at the Western Australian Museum, which attracted 85,000 visitors.

LM

Do you believe as I do, that Perth is a dynamic “hot spot” of talent? Why do you think that is?

AC

In 1983 when I began my career, WA fashion designers had little impact on the national market place. Perth now has a local fashion community that sits confidently, not only on a national but on an international platform.

The WA government (Department of Culture and the Arts) implemented the Designer Fashion Grant system (similar to the New Zealand format) over 10 years ago. This funding is unique in Australia and gives financial support to emerging and established designers. I believe this has nurtured and supported the industry here.

LM

What do you think of today’s street fashion?

AC

Street fashion has it’s place as a fashion staple. A large proportion of consumers are most comfortable wearing denim and sportswear inspired pieces during daily life. Fashion has changed enormously since the the launch of retailers such as Zara, H&M, Topshop, UniQlo.

Consumers now have an appetite for lower price/lesser quality, disposable fashion items. Certainly not an ethos I subscribe to.

LM

What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers?

AC

My advice has always been to find work within the industry before attempting to launch a brand. The industry is notoriously fickle at best. Many young designers are naïve to the pitfalls of this industry.

LM

What is your advice to young women and the way they dress? Are you pleased to see the hemline going a little more south?

AC

I’m generally appalled by the way the majority of young women are dressing … there is nothing tasteful or flattering about a skimpy jersey dress with a plunging neckline and hemline that leaves very little to the imagination.

LM

What influence do you think social media has had on our current fashion industry and do you think it is a positive or negative influence?

AC

There is certainly a place for social media.

We just need to look at the continuing rise of bloggers to understand that this phenomenon is here to stay. I don’t necessarily agree with the amount of attention bloggers are getting. Now the focus is not what is on the runway, but what a blogger wears to the runway show.

LM

What is your favourite social media platform?

AC

I am very fond of Instagram as a visual platform. Facebook and Twitter have become a little too nasty for my liking.

LM

What age bracket do you design for?

AC

The Aurelio Costarella product offering is focused around special-occasion dressing. Cocktail, evening wear and bridal, Costarella has become the go-to brand for an event requiring a special, stand-out statement piece.

Aurelio Costarella has a core audience of 25 – 45 year old women with a universal appeal across broad age groups.

LM

Why do you think this country has so few men’s designers?

AC

Menswear is a tough market. I have never been brave enough to venture there.

LM

What do you think of the phenomenon of fast fashion and how has it affected you as a local Australian designer?

AC

I’m not a fan of the high street fashion stores. There is no denying that they have built hugely successful international business’s, but at what cost?

I don’t subscribe to ‘FAST’ fashion or what I like to refer to as “landfill” fashion … cheap, disposal and anything but sustainable.

Our focus has always been on creating pieces that are special and transcend fashion fads.

The Aurelio Costarella brand is not about creating seasonal product.

Our focus is on providing our customer with beautiful, investment pieces that are timeless.

I’m all about offering a point of difference. This is what an educated consumer wants. This is what my customer buys into.

LM

Do you think our local industry is helped or hindered by what I call the “Zara” phenomenon?

AC

Fast fashion is essentially for consumers that don’t understand or appreciate the value of garments.

LM

Do you ever think fashion bloggers look the same at events?

AC

Funny you say that,  I think they try to be individual. They may look the same as they have a similar talent, that is they have all mastered the art of the selfie.

LM

How hard have you found it to show your collections and make connections overseas?

AC

Being based in Perth it is actually more cost efficient to show overseas than over East. We have had various shows at New York Fashion Week, Shanghai and Japan and more recently began showing in Paris.

Showcasing your collection on an international platform covers a far greater media and buyer reach so the outlay is worthwhile. Australian designers have been very well received into the international marketplace. For Aurelio Costarella the Middle East market has proven a favourable market.

LM

What designers do you love in Australia? Overseas?

AC

I’ve always loved Rei Kawakubo. I wear a lot of Rick Owens, Dres Van Noten and Raf Simons.

LM

What do you think about the prevalence of tattooes? Piercings? Do you think they had their day?

AC

I’m guilty of having a tattoo!

LM

Do you believe that PR companies are necessary to a designer’s success? What advice would you give someone moving into fashion design?

AC

It is interesting, when I first started it was about the product not the PR. Now young designers have a PR agent before they’ve even sold their first collection. To compete in the competitive modern market place I believe you do need to employ a strong PR manager that can promote you, direct you and also shield you.

LM

How do you cope with the commercial aspects of your design trade?

AC

The Aurelio Costarella business is focused on delivering luxury; women’s wear apparel to a discerning, design savvy consumer seeking a designer product with a point of difference.

The business is built on offering a high-end consumer, a product imbued with quality, cut and detailing.

We focus on design, fit, functionality and wearability. This sets the Aurelio Costarella brand apart from many players in the same space.

We are in touch with our customer and retailer needs and understand what they are looking for.

Seasonal collections are tailored to work with market requirements and expectations.

LM

Who are your favourite bloggers?

AC

Suzie Bubble, GaryPepperGirl, Lindy Klim.

Until next time,

Jade x